Sr6/Sr2 twist mounting fleshlight slips loose

Hello all, i’ve come with a bit of a problem, i can’t really use the sr6’ twist function with my fleshlight as it consistently slips loose when going down and twisting left(?).
It works absolutely fine with the onahole adapter but that connection to the twist module is so tight that getting it out is a bit of a pain. (I should shave those nubs down slightly with some sandpaper, thinking of it now)
I think the issue lies in how tall the nubs are on the FL sleeve, since that’s the big difference with the onahole adapter. Anyone else experience this, and if so; did you fix it? how?

The modified Fleshlight holder I use for my sleeves stays in properly with my Twist-5 ring, but another one I have does not. It seems to be a function of the tabs on the problematic holder being inclined, so the release tab on the ring just rides up the incline instead of coming to a stop against the tab.

If that’s the case for you, you could try cutting down the incline on the tab so that it’s a vertical stop. I only really use my modified holder with non-Fleshlight sleeves, so I haven’t actually tried that.

Beyond that, it would require a design modification and reprint plus reassembly of the ring, which for a Twist-5 is a real pain (re-running those wires isn’t fun, and requires reassembling the gears as well).

One possible modification would be decreasing the interior bore size, so that the release tab comes closer to the outside bore of the Fleshlight holder. That would also make it more difficult to get the holder in there, since it would have to be aligned more exactly.

Another option would be to replace the locking mechanism with a friction-fit mechanism like the Launch had, which is essentially just inclined ramps that grab the tabs on the holder. I did that for my non-Twist ring and it always held securely. That would also require putting tabs on the bottom part of the ring so it could be held while the Fleshlight holder is rotated to lock and unlock it via friction.

Pictures and or video would help people diagnose your problem.

Temp fix, get a bit of thick tape (duct tape or layers of regular tape) on the fleshlight case where the nubs are, i have 1 case that fits spot on with the nubs in a particular slot and another case that is loose regardless of the nubs / slot alignment, 2 layers of tape on each nub (and extending past the nub by 1cm each side) worked for me on that one

My sincere apologies, i meant to reply much earlier but it kept slipping my mind; excuse the shoddy camerawork i hope this shows off the issue; i started sanding down the lock and it seems to have worked, i think if i add some material to the case’s nubs with tape or maybe some superglue i’m guessing it’ll work. I have plastic cement for warhammer mini’s as well, though i’m not tempted to try using that as that melts plastic to bond it, but i’d need a bit of donor plastic. Also don’t know how & if it’ll react with the fleshlight “meat”.

As I’m writing this, i tried using electrical tape all around the fleshlight, which seems to have worked an absolute treat!




Good to hear you found a solution for now.

Tight fit issue was probably print quality problem. If it printed with a bunch of rough bumps, those basically throw off the inner circumference. I had an issue with an adapter where all of those little bumps made it a tight fit and it scratched a case trying to twist it in. Sandpaper was basically the only solution.

As for the twist receiver and it coming loose, it sounds like it wasn’t really engaging the locking mechanism at all which is why going down(applying downward force to hold the twist mechanism in place) and twisting left(twisting out of the groove) would just let it slip out. You shouldn’t be able to just spin it out w/o pulling on that little tooth.

That’s either a print quality problem again or the fact that you’re using the Boost Case(since the adapter that was made by the same seller works). There’s slight discrepancies b/t fleshlight cases and most sellers warn that its only guaranteed to work with the black cases because that was the one Tempest used for measurements.

If you really need to/want to you can probably order/print a new locking ring since the tear down for a twist module and part replacement is pretty simple.

As a heads up, if you need more grip than electrical tape, friction tape was basically designed to only stick to itself while also providing a non-slip grip.