After I separated / sanded the parts of the Twist module, I attached my Fleshlight to the Twist module. I managed to attach it, but only after pushing the Fleshlight case onto the Twist module so tightly that it cannot be removed again.
I suppose this is a “solution.” But I really think there must be a better way to attach a Fleshlight to a Twist module.
I do not yet own a 3D printer. But I am curious about exploring other solutions that can attach to the Twist module and be better for holding a Fleshlight!
There may actually be several reasons for this issue, but the current mainstream fixing solution is like this, and all SR series are using it.
Printing accuracy issues
A possible result of this problem is that it cannot be installed. The solution is to wrap a towel, paper, or other materials around it to increase the diameter and thereby enhance friction.
Different diameters of FLESHLIGHT:
There are many different diameters for FL, and there isn’t a good solution for this. If possible, it is recommended to use another fixing method from the SR1 2.0 material pack.
For the SR1 2.0 without twist is a FL receiver listed. I just want this receiver without the device or anything else.
I bought the version with twist, but I don’t like the twist function.
No, as I understand, this is the open receiver for onaholes and the like. I want to attach a fleshlight sleeve and its housing to the SSR1 2.0. Just like with the twist receiver, but without the sleeve being able to rotate (twist).
I’m starting to wonder if I’m just not doing something right with the generic onahole attachment for the 360 twist arm. The ring that came with mine to put in the twist arm will sit into it, but won’t twist to lock in, like one of the arms is just slightly too big or something.
Had this with mine when i first got it, the ring is just a bit stiff, one of the receiver “prongs” has a release, i found it easiest to push the other 2 prongs in first, and then hold the release while pushing the last one in, and then when all 3 are in, twist to secure it.
I tried to make a visual aid for what i mean, the red parts are slots for the ring, the blue parts are the lock for the ring and the green part is the bit that should move, you have to push the ring into the 2 red slots, and then while holding the green part in, push the ring into it, then twist into the blue (Clockwise) to lock it in place.
Im assuming thats what youre having trouble with, let me know if im way off.
So, I can locate the ring entirely into the twist module, but I’m unable to twist it into place, as if something is blocking it from twisting. It’s not the part that you press in (the tab lock once its in place) Might just be the 3D print is slightly off on mine and it’s too shallow to get fully into the slots.
That’s definitely possible as the parts are 3D printed (I assume some error can happen sometimes). I’m not affiliated with the printers at all, best i can say now would be probably doing some measurements with some vernier calipers or something. if the measurements dont add up, it’s probably best to reach out to the printer you purchased from. (Probably FunOSR)
A heads up to those who’s contemplating whether to purchase funsr1 2.0 or not…
Purchased one myself roughly two weeks ago through aliexpress store due to curiosity and reviews were mostly positive, however upon receiving it I was left with nothing but dissapointment as it was unfortunately broken. Unwrapped the bubble wrap and the main unit was broken in multiple places. I guess ended up getting damaged in transit. Packaging could use some improvement going forward.
What’s the difference between this and SSR1? Is this the newer version or something different? How does the speed units per second compare with the ssr1 I am interested but want to be sure I’ll be happy with the decision I make
