This is interesting, maybe with carefully desined contact shape and some vibration can get these ‘air’ gaps out before it’s solidified
yes this is better than fail in the middle of the ‘business’
This is interesting, maybe with carefully desined contact shape and some vibration can get these ‘air’ gaps out before it’s solidified
yes this is better than fail in the middle of the ‘business’
After dovetail and glue securing you can also use ducttape to cover over…a bit like the improvised covering you used in the pic above…
As far as i know, with the melting type thats not recommended to do. As the vibrations can weaken then bond itself. And im not sure if these glues are normaly safe to handle, as its often used for steel, and i dont know how many there are for plastics and how well they work. But hey, if you find a good one, you can be sure its going to remain sturdy as its effectively a weld. And on large surfaces i dont think small air bubbles matter. Especialy if you design it in such way that there is plenty of margin.
For plastics you can weld the material through friction itself, as that can heat the materials also enough to melt them. But from my experience, these are often still less optimal compared to a traditional glue as that method has a few downsides to work with: you must ensure enough material gets molten, which on larger surfaces is nearly impossible, and on small surfaces, you have to consider using extra material as this friction will grind some of it away to the sides (not helping the weld at all).
Traditional glues are often optimal.as that is still the most reliable way to avoid airgaps (especialy when you vibrate those out).
Also, as traditional glues can harden slowly, it does enable vaccuum chamber usage to get rid of bubbles.
So in short, Avoid splitting the part if possible, to save more troubles lol
has anyone tried just melting in some threaded inserts into the handy body directly? I’ve done that to some 3d prints and they’ve held up fairly well. I haven’t taken apart the handy but it seems like it has plenty of extra wiggle room in the plastic for some modifications.
I have one of the semi-official printed cup holder things for the handy that has worked out alright, but if you could just screw it into a 1/4" cam or VESA mount directly it would seem more stable
I really like Abdulis design to be able to use the Handy with controls away from the user. It prevents a pinch and allows to really go low vertically. The only slight drawback is the torque load increase due to the slider being extended horizontally.
Link: clip-on slider extender by Abdulishandy - Thingiverse
Thank you so much for the compliment -
I have some new designs for sleeve holders here
https://cults3d.com/en/3d-model/various/hands3-sleeve-holders-for-the-handy
The newer version addesses the offset torque factor ![]()
Creative approach! The only drawback of this design I think to see is that if for some unfortunate reason the male organ would leave the sleeve, it has a very high change of impacting the object.
Your older design is not circular and therefore has at least 3/4 less change of such catastrophe.
Thanks - There are a few designs there that should generally cover all use cases and I will add as I go and as requested to - For example, with any design, reduction to trim excess can be helpful for improvement. I could potentially reduce the 120 diameter on the bigger holders but need to still allow for bigger sleeves so could probably only shave about 10mm and add more spring rate. This spring system allows for flexibility to contour slightly and I will probably develop this further with multi sections of flex than just the 2 at present but should be plenty for now - No need to over complicate things etc.
As to the circularity matter, it is the same arch but wider to allow for better strapping down.
Thanks again ![]()
Really? The mike arm holds it firm enough?
Maybe I’ll only have ever seen cheap mike arms but the one I know could be pushed easily because of leverage, regardless of how tight I tried to screw it. I somehow can’t imagine this setup working for me.
I just upgraded from the solace to the handy (it’s still in the mail) but I was wondering if anyone has used the solace desk clamp/mount for the handy? it’s pretty convenient to me, I’m a desk only user. kinda needs to be discreet and hide-able so that set up is perfect…and free! I have a 3D printer too so any input is welcomed!
edit: I found this: Universal Hands-Free Handy Mount by defucilis - Thingiverse. Can anyone change the mounting plate so I could use the solace clamp?
Just wanted to add a creation of my own to this thread ![]()
Pretty easy set up (if you have a 3D printer that is) ![]()
Could I get the link for the cup holder you are using?
I printed this one and it works perfectly. I made an adjustment so I can use it with a multi-angle vise
Hi all,
can somebody help me to figure out how the stanley things will be put together for the solution?
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4855077
Thanks a lot.
Anybody got some Handy 2 Mount ideas? It has the screw-in mount. I kind of want something sorta weighted that I can move around, put it onto a desk or bed and keep it in place. Not sure.
This might sound nuts but how about a tv trolly securing the handy with simple camera screws and photography cheese plates to make an L bracket. You can use wheel bracks or step on the stand/legs, adjust height and tilt angle and can use in bed too - though may need to swing a rachet strap around bed from under and tighten down to a secure enough level of slack to wedge yourself under the handy2 secured to the tv trolley - the rachet strap pulls the vertical beam/neck of the tv trolley down toward bed and you.
I’ve tried, but you would really need to get something custom if you want a truly stable hold.
Look up Edmund’s universal arts and crafts stand.