Handy 2 Pro First Impressions (Bad Design and Durability)

Im glad i avoided pre ordering, however unless im mistaken (someone with Manuel) you are supposed to have it upside down, invert the motors/controls with latest firmware.

Mount using the bottom mounthole with device upside down and have the handy on the backside of your member, rather then kinda on lower chest, opposite from Handy 1. Makes sense with the mounting hole on the back of the Handy with the charging port out of the way. Someone with a manual will need to clarify. Just because both are Handy’ doesn’t mean exact same usage.

If someone with a manual can clarify if it states usage as the same as Handy1, then this seems like really bad design as will have cable coming at you, and even poetneiall the mounting arm.

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maybe im just picturing this all wrong but from the way the device looks to be setup should it not go to the right side of you and not in the front or back?

I posted a video on the discord server. Not sure if I can send large video file size over email

My launch still lives!!! Although it is probably the fifth replacement because it was shit design…but hey….it still rocks the casbah

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I had five. Two of them were free replacements due to defects.

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Numerous of mine were replaced

My Handy2 Pro is arriving tomorrow and I mentioned the poor location of the mounting holes in a post I made earlier today. One reply asked why you would use both mounting holes and this was my response.

If the handy were entirely composed of mild steel it might not be necessary. But we are talking about something made out of ABS plastic with what looks to be brass threaded inserts melted into it. Two things that do not naturally go together regardless of the steel or alloy that the threaded insert is made of, at minimum. Agree?

So any off the shelf bracket which is made from thin steel or 3d printed out of your preferred material will utilize one or both threaded holes. To your question. If attached by only one of the two mounting points, scooting over an inch in bed…over tightening the strap for a little more sensation or to mimic the one that got away…poses a tremendous stress load on a single 1/4x20 mounting point. To begin with, that is small hardware. It is just barely out of the machine screw classification where you start referring to them as bolts. Using grade 5 or grade 8 hardware will not change the leverage being applied to the hot nut which came pre-inserted in the Handy2.

Now if you utilize both threaded holes in your selected mounting configuration, you are then ensuring that the Handy2 can handle an axial load.

If using only the bottom hole, a down stroke is leveraging the unit straight back and away from you. An up stroke is doing the opposite. Almost guaranteed to break if the fastening hardware ever comes loose, but even if it does not, it’s a tremendous stress load.

Using only the rear hole below the USB-C Charge/Passthrough port, an up or down stroke is still applying leverage in the same manner, basically prying the Handy backwards and forwards, even if you can’t physically see it happening. Leverage is leverage. A see-saw is the simplest example. Fixed at one point. Fat kid leverages skinny kid lol

So using both is what I highly recommend to anyone looking to source a good hands-free mounting solution. But as I said earlier, if the two threaded mounting holes weren’t essentially right around the corner from one another, and instead closer to top and bottom respectively, then that mount would not only be extremely steady (likely adding to the immersion) but it would also lessen the odds of the brass nut inserts being pulled out. One of the super early bird backers posted about one or both of them being ripped out of his a couple months ago here on Eroscripts.

I am a tradesman with fabrication and welding background, millwright, and a hero to many engineers throughout each passing year. Within a few moments of glancing at a blueprint which the engineer has revised multiple times, I can usually point out two or three things that are not going to work the way they expect them to. I also help them with the solution after being argued with.

Engineers are academically gifted by and large, and they leave school with a hard earned degree. But the best engineers, and they are quite rare…show evidence of working with their hands at some point in their early years. On the farm with grandpa…or just curious as a child and always taking things apart to understand how they work. These are the best kind, as book smarts and common sense seamlessly fit and work together in their minds. 90+% of the 500 or more that I’ve met…I’ve had to explain 3-4 different ways why their idea is wrong. But when the lights come on, I’ve made a friend and established trust. If they do not, I end up doing the stupid thing they ask for to give the better visual…and my smart ass mouth typically has my boss calling later. As Brad Pitt said in Inglorious Bastardsā€¦ā€I’ll probably get chewed outā€, ā€œI’ve been chewed out beforeā€ :joy:

I don’t believe that I will bother with the flipped orientation mode, as the leveraging issue of the close proximity of both holes will remain an issue. My bracket will be a piece of 3/8ā€ angle iron dimensioned 1-5/8ā€ wide x 1-3/4 x 1-1/4, and I will use a tapered flat top allen bolt and countersink the hole so it is flush when tightened. That will address one of the OP complaints.

My mount will not be super heavy as it will consist of small pieces. But it will be bulletproof. And it will have a riser to the top of the unit and I will secure it there, as well as an opening with enough clearance for any USB-C charger to work in conjunction with it.

Ultimately I am going to fit it with a quick release VESA mount which I have bought several of from Amazon. This will allow me to quickly break down my setup with no tools needed. I have an in-vehicle arm mount (and some well tinted windows) and my go to is a swing arm with a desk clamp that I’ve attached to a 1-1/2ā€ thick 18x24 inch chunk of UHMW and can simply slide under the mattress for that infinite adjustability in bed. And if I travel for work, I never know if there will be sturdy furniture in some AirBnbs, so I maintain the option to use the slide under the mattress hands free mount anywhere I find myself.

Someone said the ā€œonly good thing about the handyā€, as if there’s only one…and made it out like the Launch is better because China has produced so many knock offs, and that is an unfair assessment. As Evelyn stated, on the 5th replacement. I thought I might eventually kill my handy 1, so I bought a backup and have been attempting to kill the OG. I ran it for a year before applying a silicone lubricant to the stroke screw. I have overheated it a million times. Unplugged and plugged it back in repeatedly to ignore the cool down warning. I’ve run fast vibrating scripts for hours on end. I’ve placed wet wash cloths over my junk to not burn myself and gotten it hot enough to cook breakfast off of. It still lives. Every single other striker I’ve tried has paled in comparison. As for side handles, if enough people want that option the creative souls in this community will come up with one. Nothing beats hands free imo. Until I get a PC or VR headset reading my thoughts and launching apps based on that…I need my hands to reach for the mouse, a sip of draaaank, or to quickly modify a script to my liking, maybe hit the dank or rip a whippet :joy:

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That’s a very thorough explanation. My Handy 1 cup mount’s threaded screw hole broke out of the plastic shell so what you are saying can absolutely happen.

But ultimately… it depends on a lot of factors. You describe expected wear using the bottom screw mount - but the angle of the arm holding the Handy is a factor in the force placed on the mounting screw. And the stiffness of the arm joints matter as well. So mileage will vary.

Bingo! Some one that gets off in a few minutes with little effort can probably live with a single fastener style mount. I be getting gooned tf out :joy: I’ll switch vids if I’m about to bust :rofl:

I had great luck with the handy1 cup mount, just not their hands free arms. The internals were too soft for me lmao

My first hands free setup was that inexpensive galvanized angle iron with all the pre-punched holes in it. Three pieces worked together for stiffness and I relocated the mounting positions until it was just right. There was nothing quick about disassembly though and I was in a rush to get that first HFO.

When I get the new one setup I’ll share details and dimensions. It will most certainly be over-engineered but could be duplicated with lighter materials.

Wonder if the Tesla robots will have funscript support?! :joy: I could have paid cash for one already had I not involved myself with the last 3 girlfriends. Criminal I tell you!

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This is my hands free setup. Easily works with any bed or can be clamped to any sturdy desk

I’m having a really hard time mounting my Handy 2 Pro to my rig (if the embedded video player for some reason moves to the right, right click and open in new tab).

The device is fully screwed in and it still moves like that. I can sort of get away with it because once I position myself below it, the Handy rests on my thigh, but still, I think that if the hole was longer it would secure much more firmly.

And to make matters worse, in an incredibly display of bad luck, when I tried the other mounting hole (the one on the bottom, although in this case it was on the top because I’m using it inverted), I broke one of these 360°adapters that came with the camera arm that you can see in the video while screwing it in, the damn thing piece of metal junk broke inside The Handy screw hole!

Obviously I’m not blaming the device design for this, and I swear to God I wasn’t applying that much force. Although I was doing it in sort of an uncomfortable position kind of bending forward towards the rig on my bed, so I may have applied some lateral force instead of just a uniform vertical rotating movement while screwing it in, and the damn thing broke to the side. Unbelievable. Now the piece of the tip that got screwed in is virtually impossible to get out. I’ll have to make do with the other mounting hole, the one in the video.

I think I’m gonna look for alternatives using those Stanley clamps that some people use, because those tripod collar rings that the user in the previous message showed -and that I also used with my original Handy- are not compatible with the more oval shape of the Handy 2

Aside from all the drama with the mounting holes, I don’t know if the device needs some time to loosen up a bit or what because I feel the stroker is kind of stiff and has a lot of trouble reaching the bottom pushing against my manhood in the sleeve.

Even testing it without any weight I don’t feel it faster than the first Handy





Update: Examining it closely I think I found the culprit for the less than firm hold.

The threads in the mounting hole are stripped to shreds. If this was indeed my fault, I’m sure as hell I didn’t apply too much force. I honestly believe these mounting holes are not good quality. Be extremely careful when using them, do not force them. Now my Handy 2 Pro has one of the mounting holes with stripped threads and another one with a piece of metal stuck inside. Lovely.

Well, time to get creative.

Best bet is to get some small left handed drill bits and a tiny ease-out. Occasionally just the left handed bit succeeds with the extraction alone. Left handed bits literally drill in the opposite direction and are easily distinguished from the standard because the spiral is wound in the opposite direction.

Your mount seemed like a Ram mount which is effective really only with lightweight items. I’m just about to get started on a proper mount for my handy2 pro which arrives in the next 4 hours. I got held up by a DIY paint/body project on a rental car that had a little whoopsie :laughing:

My fault, I just saw that you succeeded with the removal. Get a 1/4x20 bottoming tap from hardware store to carefully chase the threads out. Then with your new hardware, wrap the threads with a little teflon tape but not more than a couple wraps


Just adding a quick beware here:

I haven’t received a Handy 2 (love my Handy 1) but had one preordered. After seeing the reviews and issues and changing my mind I contacted support who told me that the refund windows is 2 hours(!) after placing the order and therefore could not cancel my order or refund it. Note this wasn’t a Kickstarter order, just a standard website preorder (which apparently charges immediately rather than upon shipping). So beware if you decide to preorder anything from them because you apparently only have two hours to change your mind. I’m having to open a dispute with my card to get the order cancelled because they ghosted me after a single canned response, which is honestly very disappointing.

I just re-read your statement about the angle of the arm making a difference in the force applied to the single mounting screw method. Please explain how you have concluded that one. I will be learning something new as a result.

If you look at the construction of anything/everything as I tend to. (Even on a walk through the park, a visit to a historical site of interest, or on the construction site) you’ll see quite the range of construction methods. Anything that’s meant to last or to secure without allowing movement will have more than a single bolt to accomplish that. And this will go from one extreme to the other. The columns that are stood on end to frame up skyscrapers are I Beams that are a specific weight per foot. Lowest floors use the heaviest and the highest have the lightest. From column section to column section, are fish plates securing them together using an ungodly amount of structural bolts, ensuring the safety of everyone in the building.

The strongest geometric form is the triangle, which you’ll see on display beneath monster trucks which are heavy, fly through the air, and take the abuse of many hard landings. Any basic shelf bracket meant to support significant weight has the 45 degree gusset making it a right triangle.

This is why light duty swing arm mounts will allow some movement for our intended use.

Geometry is really cool and I loved it in school. I still use it all the time. Alphabet math is silly and I have not made use of it one time :rofl:

The arm I use is a heavy duty microphone arm rated for over 3 pounds of weight attached. Depending on the position of the Handy and the arm it changes which part of the arm moves when the Handy is active. From this I conclude the counter force from the Handy’s movement isn’t being exerted on the Handy’s attachment point - it is being transferred to the arm.

Normally when in use I have the arm coming straight out from my desk to my chair. The Handy is at a small downward angle from the arm to my crotch. That means the counter force from the Handy is mostly pushing back into the straightened arm segments. The Handy’s push is against the entire strength of the arm and joint.

I do notice the screw attaching the Handy to the arm is loosened when I use the Handy. I believe when my Handy 1 cup mount attachment broke loose the microphone arm screw wasn’t fully seated, causing more strain on the cup mount. I’m in the habit of tightening this screw before each use now. This ensures the force is transferred to the arm, minimizing the strain at the attach point.

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I 100% agree with your logic. I don’t know if possible with your setup, but if you can switch to a fastener with longer threads than needed, you could add an additional ā€œjam nutā€ which would then be snugged against the handy2 mounting point after threading into it to the point of almost bottoming out. This would be a practical solution to the loosening issue. Red Loctite would definitely work with what you currently have, but then if you need or want to take it apart it would be advised to seperate it elsewhere :rofl:

If your arm has multiple ball/socket adjustment points then absolutely each one acts as its own ā€œshock absorberā€, but as a result, also allows the very movement I wish to avoid for the full immersive effect of hands free use

I share your concern over immersion. Fortunately the movement of the arm is minimal.

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