However it looks, it held the original Handy rock solid in place. The only difference is that instead of the arm attaching to the mounting hole of the H2 Pro, it attached to a tripod collar ring like the one in the pictures of your setup. Now I know that the threads in the mounting hole are stripped, that’s why it’s not held firm in place. I need to look for an alternative.
Nah, piece of shit is still there, I don’t have the tools to try to remove it. That one is the bottom mounting hole. The mounting hole with the stripped threads is the one in the back of the device.
My handy2 pro showed up about 30 minutes ago while I was digging through my scrap steel and hardware bins. I don’t have welding capability today unfortunately because my truck/engine driven Lincoln welder are at the dealership service center. I very well may go see if it is parked outside though
The chosen scrap steel is 2” x1/4” flat stock. 1-1/2” would be most aesthetically pleasing to the eye but ima get something going for a little overclocking activities tonight lol
One thing I don’t like just looking at these threaded inserts is the fact that they only have two threads. This was a corner cut by the manufacturer of the inserts. They used a starting tap which tapers to a point, allowing you to easily “start” threads in a shallow drilled hole. If they had followed up with a bottoming tap, the hole would be threaded all the way to the bottom of the insert, thus preventing the customer from accidentally stripping said threads and also giving the insert a similar holding strength to that of the fastener.
I’m in town now tracking down a countersink bit, 1/4” bit, and tapered hardware. Then I’m going to slide over to my truck at the dealership and tell them I need to start my welding machine for a bit before this cold weather kills my battery, and quickly weld this Amazon sourced 75x75 to 100x100 VESA adapter, and the section I thinned out to make the 90 degree bend in it. I could have 90’ed it with heat, but that makes a longer radius in the corner which would show a larger gap and not look as nice
Definitely cheesy and an oversight when they sourced the supplier. I’m about to just grab a 1/4x20 tap while getting the tapered head fasteners. Instead of welding the vesa adapter to the 1/4” steel flat stock, I will thread the flat stock. The recess in the adapter appears deep enough to fit the hardware behind my quick release adapter, and that will make my design easier for most DIY enthusiasts at home to accomplish the same
Literally waiting for paint to dry. I will apply some peel and stick rubber strips to prevent scratching the housing of the handy2, and to limit vibrations loosening the hardware
After watching your video, I’ve concluded that one simple solution for the floppy concern off of your ball/socket to 1/4x20 attachment would be to buy a stack of flat washers that are just large enough to slip past the seat of the 1/4x20 threads, but not too large to slip over the socket portion of the ball socket. I’d say no more than 10 washers will do the trick. Stack them until they just barely interfere with the 1/4x20 flange and then when you snug it to TheHandy, the stack of washers will also snug. This will create a rigidness as if the ball/socket never existed in the first place
Personally I am a little disappointed in the torque of the device. If I am on a tilt or not straight on with the alignment, or if I use a complex/tight onahole, it just stalls (doesn’t go all the way down)… Its too gentle for my taste. I don’t want to enable OC mode yet, cause warranty and such. Anyone else thing its a bit too gentle?
Exactly the problem I’ve been experiencing. I enabled OC and left it in the 600mm/s preset and it improved a bit, the slider also needs to loosen up a bit with use and it seems to go lower now.
At slow speeds I can feel the torque better, pushing down pretty hard actually, but at moderate to fast speeds, it cannot push down and kind of stalls sometimes only to carry on with the next action upwards.
Everyone that ordered from kickstarter are allowed to overclock without voiding warranty. First it was only allowed for Super-Early-Birds but they changed it to all pro users from kickstarter. You can ignore the popup in the app.
The mounting holes in the cup and official overpriced excuse of a handsfree solution had terrible threads aswell. I would have hoped they figured it out with permanent slots in the handy 2.
Time go get a fusr1 2.0 then I guess. I am not paying a dime to handy anymore. I have had a handy for about two years, and love it. The problem is the handy still does not have a proper player/software, and in terms of hardware, even the handy 2 is outdated. I dont see the point of buying a handy 2 for its threads to loosen, when I can just get a funsr1, with better speed, smoothness, latency, weight capacity, all of that for cheaper. And even the sleeves, I really want to use either flashlights or onaholes man, the handy sleeves with TPE are so expensive imo for their lifespan.
Since this thread mentions durability issues I wanted to add that my Handy 2’s charging port has failed after only a couple months of use. The port was not put under any undue stress (in fact I have a right-angle cable with a strain-relief anchor mounted on the hands-free to make sure there is next-to-no pressure on the charging port) but when disconnecting the cable as normal I heard a “POP” and the entire charging port assembly now appears to be loose (I can wiggle it up-and-down and partially pull it out with little force) and the unit no longer accepts a charge.
To make sure it was not on my end I tested 2 wall warts, using PC as a power source and 2 cables, all of which had the same result.
I have contacted their support and hoping for a speedy replacement but PSA these things are REALLY fragile.
This isn’t the first time I’ve heard the complaint that the screw holes are easily stripped. @handyAlexander is there a possibility that a batch had inserts that weren’t tempered?
Exactly the same thing happened with my unit. Whether it’s a bad batch or not, sorry to say but the design is just straight-up bad once you get to the mounting part. You can’t take a device like this - which already has quite a bit of stress on it, especially when you’re overclocking - and expect it’s going to last a long time when it’s only held in place by such a tiny, shallow thread that barely gets 4–5 turns into the hole. The Leverage plus the constant movement and vibrations will eventually loosen the screw no matter what, and will just wallow out that hole over time.
