My Keon seems to have an issue when it hits the bottom, or starting point. It flashes red and blue. I found nothing after taking it apart to look for damage or debris. It acts like a limit switch or something of the sort but is not activating to say it went too far. So it hits the bottom, stays for a moment, and then starts flashing. Outside of buying a new unit(and it is out of the 1yr warranty if not before I tore it apart it is now.) so contacting the manufacturer is just not going to help on this one. Does anyone have any ideas that you have found with your unit? I could find little online through searches.
This usually happens to me if there is an obstruction detected and the device slows down and stops until it is cleared.
It sounds like the moving body has slid down the rod over time and the stroke does go too far, in which case making a small reverse adjustment to the starting/finishing position after the device turns off should suffice.
I will try that. Thank you!
I realized after I posted that reply that I have no idea how to do that. Just so you can see what I have available for options:
I figured out I could adjust the rod by loosening the screws on the flexible coupler. However, that had no effect. Still errors out.
Side note is the rod supposed to be below the hole at the top? Seems like that hole is there for a reason but I can not find any pictures of a Keon that is aligned to compare that too.
I highly encourage you to email the keon company with your issue.
Sadly I did.
Thier responce after giving a detailed explanation of what was occurring:
"Dear **************,
Thank you for contacting us. We are sorry to hear this!
Unfortunately, if your device has been purchased in June 2023 it is no longer under our 1-year warranty and cannot be replaced following our warranty policy.
From your description it seems that there might an internal issue with your device. Sadly we are unable to provide you with further advice, as it goes against our policy to have the devices open to change or modify any components, due to the fact that it can cause damage and injuries if done incorrectly.
Sorry we could not help further! If you have any further questions, please do not hesitate to ask.
Kind regards,
Team Kiiroo
"
Damn, thats unfortunate. Have you tried taking it apart and cleaning it then regreasing it? Then put it together again.
Yeah. I did. 
And it was. Machines like that use a control chip that looks at the resistance to determine movement. I have that with some lasers that I own. Some have limit switches, and some just limit by motor resistance. Keon seems to do the resistance thing. So that being said I believe the real problem is the chip that reads the limit is most likely bad. So I wrote Kiiroo regarding trying to get a new PCB, and they basically told me to take a hike. Even went as far as mentioning the “Right to Repair” stuff they are pushing in Europe, which they are based in Amsterdam so thought it was worth a shot. Still denied me. Long story made short, it seems to be unrepairable based on the fact they will not even sell the components to repair the unit, and getting a secondhand unit to strip due to biological reasons(gross) is beyond my comfort level. LOL
So I bit the bullet and bought a new one. Just have to much invested in the Keon accessories and sleaves to switch brands, despite wanting to after this. It should be here in a few days. Would be nice to fix the other one since apparently, they are a bit fragile so it seems. LOL
So if you have any ideas, I have it still in pieces, always happy to give another wack at it, or just wack it with a bat whichever works. LOL
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In terms of adjusting the starting/finishing position, the piece connecting the motor to the main rod might be the way. It seems like a housing for the gear. Is it manually adjustable in any way?
With proper safety precautions, it may prove useful to watch the issue happen while the device is deconstructed. Would it be possible for you to create a video of this as well?
Perhaps they are detecting obstructions using the resistance from the motor by tracking its current as you’ve said.
The next logical step to take is to renew or, if you’re able to find it, replace the actual motor.
Because of the age and usage of the device it will be worn out and most likely drawing too much current and easily tripping the resistance detection.
Also check for any loose or damaged wiring that could have resulted from vibrations or increased electrical load and any debris along the main or secondary rods.
I could make a video of the general disassembly process. It might be a bit before I can pull off that, however. Full house and all. And I would have to find a place to post it that does not link back to me personally. That would not be good if it did. LOL
I think you may have a point on the motor. Despite it seeming to be still very strong, that does not mean it’s not out of range. It did seem to descend from the top about 2 times faster than it did in working condition, and that may be a hint right there.
As far as the rod goes the flexible coupler has 2 “screws” of a sort on the top, and the perceptual bottom of the coupler. You can adjust the screws and move the rod. Quite a bit actually. I am uncertain of the proper height of the rod which has led me to wonder if I even have that set correctly. Without tearing apart a working machine, or someone posting a picture from one of those battery mods with the rod showing it is hard to tell what position it should be in. It has almost a full inch of movement when unscrewed. It allows for a variety of possible position heights. Also, the opening at the top of the housing makes me think mine may have been recessed quite a bit, possibly from the factory. Hard to tell for sure. The thing was screwed in tight so I would not suspect that it slipped, however, you never know with these things. LOL
No issues with making the videos, only wanted to see what it looks like when the issue was happening in both intact and deconstructed form.
Making one for the disassembly process itself would definitely be a useful guide for others if you could do this in addition.
Although, I’m thinking my next device will be a Handy or something multi-axis when my Keon does eventually run out of steam. It’s nice to know roughly how long my Keon would last, and I will keep an eye out if this issue happens to my unit as well.
One more question that may be relevant, what type of sleeves are you using with the Keon?
If Fleshlight sleeves, then these are usually too large for the tunnel (the sleeve opening tends to overhang around the edges of the sleeve casing). If used in this way, it produces a rubbing resistance against the tunnel which could be contributing to the malfunction.
Kiiroo sell a case adaptor to further hold in the sleeve around the edges of the sleeve opening and prevent this rubbing. I ask this because in one of the photos it looks like this has been happening but I’m not too sure.
I use a mix Kiiroo, and Fleshlight. When I first got the unit for about 4ish months I used the Fleshlight sleeves without the ring, as at the time the ring was not available, and only could get 3d printer files, which do me no good as i don’t have or know anyone with one. So When they did come out with the ring, I was one of the first in the virtual line. It did help, a lot actually. the Fleshlight dragging not only left the fun residue we all know about but also seemed to lag the unit. Never know that may be why the unit failed months later come to think of it.
At the end of the day, I don’t think it is a bad product, or even poorly designed looking at what it does, it actually is rather simple in design, and I feel MOST parts could be easily repaired or modded as one feels. The full sleeve and the ability to use Fleshlight sleeves is a huge advantage to their product. I don’t think I would personally do the Handy, as it is kind of small, general stroker kind of deal. I like the full feeling. Especially when doing VR. The Multi-axis devices on the other hand seem to be a great idea. Just not sure how versatile it would be. An example is sitting in one place i am sure it is THE BEST, but standing or on a bed simulating missionary or simulated doggy in VR seems like those units might be complicated to get in place to get the job done. I could be wrong, and if I am I am totally ok with that. It would be nice to get some insight on that actually. LOL Well if you ever get one, let me know if that works. I may need some tips! LOL
Similar to Keon + Fleshlight compatibility accessories, there are straps available to hold a full Fleshlight sleeve and case in place. It’s size and design looks like it lends better for full hands-free usage when not using desk mounts.
True about multi-axis, but I’ve seen across this forum the VR/AR passthrough experience is a lot better compared to linear. This of course assumes I’ll be adding a capable headset to my wishlist, for which I still need to do more research on.
As you’ve said, it depends greatly on how one uses or wants to use their device(s). I tend to prefer stationary and passive/relaxed positions, which lends well to linear strokers in general.
Anyhow, let’s try not get too off-topic, and do let us know when you have any updates on this particular soldier of a Keon!
Hey dude, since it seems you’re tech and hardware savey, why not invest yourself into making an SR6 / OSR2. I have a Keon and the SR6 has completely blown it out of the water, so much so that I haven’t touched the Keon in like a year. It’s compatible with your Fleshlights and Kiroos.