The forum is mostly dead by now, but SocialStim.org popped up as a resource in the wake of SmartStim collapse. There are some already-in-progress guides in there, and if you want to wade into the sadness, Milovana has info but it’s going to be scattered across a lot of different threads.
fwiw, this is one of the more helpful and less-inclined sites to bury a person in jargon. It’s there, but it seems users on this site are more willing to ELI5 than shrug and move along.
I’ve been a stimmer since the '00s and I don’t have a Coyote or the tech knowledge of using one like @cstimmer and don’t know much about Howl app. But many of the wiring-up principles are the same.
I started with a TENS, had a 2B and ET312, and run a 1st gen BT-Stim stereo box. FOC-Stim looks interesting, but I don’t have the time or inclination to shoehorn Restim onto my mac and spend hours figuring out settings… one of the things that had me checking out OSR2 and this world.
IOW, rambling aside - there are a few stimmers here and likely to jump in to help.
IF the Coyote can handle “tri-phase” with two inputs on the same electrode, try putting that “common” on the head, with the other A/B leads on perineum and shaft base when you run funscripts… It’ll deepen the stroking sense, you’ll get sensation the whole length plus the few inches of root. I use a Large Flo metal plug, just the tip is connected, instead of the perineum loop to trigger prostate - and with a common on the head, the right track can make it feel like I’m getting my entire system milked and squeezed and pushed and pulled. I can also run the perineum ring - depends. My usual setup is the Large Flo with the tip on A (+, or red, only using to denote the different connex points since I’m using a stereo box), a perienium loop and a shaft base loop each sharing the A/B - (black) as a common, and a glans loop with B+ (red). Or switching the common to the head, and perenium/shaft on a splitter for B+. In the first config, I can easily switch my box between “tri-phase” and dual channel where it behaves more like the Coyote. As long as your wiring is consistent, meaning you’re not swapping +/- or red/black, you’re fine. It isn’t supposed to matter with the kind of device you’re using, but it’s a good habit to start early, should you encounter a ET-312 or mains-powered device like a stereo box.
Electrodes: Sticky pads are the easiest to understand and best for figuring out where your ideal spots are. But they wear quickly, aren’t always reliable, need to be well in contact otherwise can be painful. You can trim them within reason to fit tough spots, and there are various shapes and sizes to accommodate curvature. TENSIVE gel and happystim-usa.com (don’t be scared off by the archaic webstore, he’s got everything) will be best for keeping pads sticky and source for replacements.
Conductive rubber loops - these are the Honda CRV of the stim world. Tons of them out there, they’re reliable and will get you places without much hassle or need for maintenance. But they also wear out over time - rubber is impregnated with carbon dust, and stretch/flex, use, plugging and unplugging can reduce connectivity. A length of copper wire inside the tube will help it hold shape and improve conductivity. Sensation-wise, CR loops are a little “softer” feeling with signal, and lower-power or battery op devices, you might find yourself turning it way up at ends of sessions. But they are more comfortable, you can buy tubing from 3mm-8mm in bulk and make your own 'trodes easily. Thinner tube = sharper sensation.
Metal rings: These are a whole next level. You’re not losing much conductivity like CR loops, the signal is not softened, and there is more risk with inexperience. However… in terms of definition, it ranks like this: Pads are a CRT screen. CR loops are a nice flat-screen UHD you got cheap at WalMart. Metal loops are a curved 8k, 120fps refresh gaming monitor. But… you need to size properly and should really have your “best placements” dialed in, because good ones are not cheap. EstimSystems sells an aluminum ring set, and they are nice and wide contact area, but you would need a 2mm pin - to - 4mm banana connector. 2mm is the standard TENS connection, 4mm is an audio connector.
Everyone’s body is a little different in how we process sensation, but the clusters of nerves and trigger points are pretty much the same from person to person. Your key spots are going to be:
Prostate - a toy with a top/bottom electrode config rather than on the sides (like many silicone stim options) will allow you to use that tip and target p-spot more directly. A side-side will either need a spitter cable to make it single-pole, or occupy a whole channel as a complete electrode - but that signal won’t route to the prostate specifically, it stims the whole area of the anal canal. Which can be pleasurable with the right shape, since it is engaging the PC muscles and wiggling a prostate toy around. A top/bottom toy can be good for a “ghost fuck”, since the contact points are outside the sphincter and inside, having a “pull-push” effect.
Around the hole: not everyone wants a butt plug. I don’t understand why… in all the years, there are always men who will chase every option besides and get frustrated with not being able to easily find the holy grail of a prostate orgasm. Consequently, they have some preferred sticky-pad placements that can work for some… A pad just between tailbone and hole, or 2 pads on either side, can help direct signal through PC and nearby. Personally - guys probably should be a little less uptight and try a plug. Most of the folks chasing pad placement to trigger any prostate stim, wind up a few months later asking about butt plugs…
Perineum - the taint, the area behind the balls is where a bunch of nerves bundle and the root of your penis begins. You’ll see almost every wiring diagram try to hit this spot, for a reason!
Balls - some folks like pads or electrodes on their balls. It’s not an area I prefer unless I’m in a specific session with a pro domme, and we’re doing CBT. But to each their own!
Shaft Base - If you stim this area with a loop, it’s a good idea to insulate the top of your shaft at this point, because signal through the dorsal nerve can overload you fast, make you number, and can also be too intense. You want penis electrodes to contact on the under side (generally).
Head: some like an all-over head electrode, and they are out there… but mostly a loop or ring works well here. Pads not so much - because if you leak fluid (you will), the pad comes off. Again, most folks prefer stimulation on the underside, and a loop sized properly will rest on the frenulum.
Sounds: Hooooboy… Yeah I’m gonna suggest doing a lot of research before the highest-risk activity in an already somewhat risky side of play. Bacteriostatic gel is a must. Sterilizing things is a must. This is not newcomer stuff.
Some like to put a loop midway on the shaft, some folks choose slight variations depending on their body. I’m a “state-changer” - meaning I go from soft to hard and back, a bunch during a session. So I have my metal loops sized for my fullest state, and some silicone inserts from Joanne’s shop, to “fill out” the spaces when I’m softer, to maintain good contact.
Lube? Some say metal rings don’t require water based lube or Spectra360 gel. Personally I find a more enjoyable long session if I’m lubed. Anything going inside is getting a generous helping of water based lube. Conductive rubber should be using water based lube or Spectra360 conductive gel. Spectra isn’t suited for internal use and it has a bunch of ingredients you don’t want to be shoving up against your cancer-magnet (prostate).
