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This design by vamrobot worked for me. Insert ona and fasten with velcro. You might want to wrap your toy with towel to prevent scratches.
It is janky… But very effective.
The open receiver designed by TempestMax also works. However it allows rooms of movement and thereby dampens roll and pitch movement by quite a bit
Very cool and these mods are great.
I would love to see this available…
Of course it needs your mods!
haha. yeah I’ve seen that one. Romeo board is a non starter for me, and I’d have to make it taller to fit the esp32, would start looking a little goofy IMHO.
The “modular”-ness of the original design has grown on me - will make for some cool color combinations without having to resort to multi color printing.
fuck it, got some extra money coming in and heavily considering it. just a few questions.
Barely know anything about the servos people tried. aware that you have servo changes on request, but do you have one that you recommend that’s more low sound focused if I do get one.
does the design allow some other mods that aren’t included in the design (e.g twist, heated case, lube) to be used. I’d assume some of them can’t but not that knowledgeable on the osr2+. I could wire if it was necessary (have soldering skills, just don’t have a 3d printer of my own for current living reasons)
Hi @imacarl! Some of your questions overlapped with others that I’ve gotten via PM, so I’ve incorporated my answers into a FAQ section at the bottom of the original post. Feel free to ask any more questions and I’ll be sure to answer. Thanks for the interest/engagement!
As someone who went the route of buying a 3d printer, learning to 3d print, building an osr2+ and tinkering with every option possible for it for a couple years, I think g90ak’s build in the configuration it’s being offered is ideal (although heat sinks are unnecessary imo). The other options available like twist, lube, valve top all have drawbacks that make me not use them even though I have the working parts in my closet. The real upgrade of OSR over other toys is full stroke range with a full size fleshlight. The way to get the most out of it is making sure all the subtlety of movement in a script gets transfered to the toy, and moves smoothly. Making the parts more rigid, and using the bearing joints like he’s done is good for that. The thing to focus on imo is a very solid base that won’t lose any of that subtlety by moving the base instead of the toy. I’d put your money into solving that before worrying about any other options or more expensive servos. I use the cheap servos myself and open them up to goop silicone grease all over the internal gearing to quiet them a bit before installing. Every servo I’ve tried has developed play in the movement eventually, so replacing the 2 primary cheapos every six months to keep it accurate/smooth is the best experience for the buck I’ve found.
One other thing every new OSR user should know is the NECESSITY of software speed limiting like available in MultiFunPlayer. OSR has no limit in the firmware like handy, so it is capable of breaking itself, or you, when (bad) scripters put in way too fast instructions expecting the handy’s firmware to fix their lazy nonsense.
@nerb - thanks so much for the feedback! Sounds like we’ve been on similar journeys 
Me too. Until I heard of JX servos melting OSR2 chassis. Some people do think that keeping the servos cooler makes them last longer, but who knows. I thought as long as it didn’t add complexity or a point of failure, why not? I think they kinda look cool too
100% agreed. This is why I felt the need to include the super sturdy desk edge mount by default (can be omitted if the user really wants to). Much more sturdy that people using spring adjustable monitor arms or other solutions while still providing 3 levels of height adjustment. Combined with the software adjustment for stroke range, I’m fairly sure it’ll cover most normal desk/chair combos.
This is one of the exact reasons I spend the extra time/money to fab the little servo harnesses. In addition to making the servos more easily replaced, it also makes it so you don’t have to modify the servos wires or plugs at all. This makes warranty (or other types of) returns easier. It’s been really helpful for me to test new servos to find ones that are too loud or don’t meet advertised specs and returning them.
Would get one if I wouldnt be totally buttfucked by import tax (EU)
I have shipped units to europe and asia with lower declared values (I think it was $10) as - used hobby plastic robot parts, servos, and circuit board. Shipping was expensive though.
If anyone wants any more pictures or details - don’t hesitate to ask. I am happy to share. I am confident that my work is high quality so I have nothing to hide!
Hi, is that Wago power bus mod listed under “My Mods” one you designed? It looks extremely similar to the one I designed, down to the silly sword. Another seller is also using this design without attribution.
@Telani Hi there! You’re absolutely right. Honestly it’s been so long since I got that model that I forgot it was one that you designed. I am very sorry.
Had it filed under my misc models and figured I got it from Thingiverse or something. I can provide attribution, a royalty fee for each of the 2 units I sell per month, or completely remove it from my units. Just let me know what works best for you - my apologies again.
No worries, feel free to continue using it without any fee, I just think attribution is important in DIY spaces 
Thank you so much, much appreciated. I will be sure and call that out.
the addons i don’t plan on getting immediately, or if at all. I just like the option if it came up down the line. TBH the one mod I’m heading towards is actually getting the an adapter to use non fleshlight options.
That’s a “mod” that I wholeheartedly support, especially if its a lighter sleeve. This will put less weight on the servos, making them have to work less, and allowing them to move faster and more accurately. I’ve always thought that Fleshlights were very large and heavy (or maybe I’m just not pornstar gifted 
) I’m definitely open to printing adapters and including them to purchasers. I just don’t have experience with any beyond the Pilot and Handy sleeve adapter so models will have to be provided.
defiantly know myself. I do have a handy and i know that a lot of people have problems putting a full fleshlilght in one of those. My collection has some various sizes. I do wish there was one for smaller holes where this one mentions that the adapter targets 7-8 inches which cuts off ones that are 6" (e.g Tenga Spinner (to make a pseudo twist motion)). So I guess my option would be getting the Handy sleeve adapter as it would be the closest
i also have a 3d printer so i am willing to try and design some adapters if wanted.
i assume if i wanted to upgrade the servos myself i would have to do some soldering?
“To avoid frustration and to facilitate easy replacement or upgrades, the g90ak Edition has separate clearly labeled wiring harnesses for each servo. It is truly plug and play when it comes to installing new servos (cable management is still needed, it’s small in there). Users will not have to touch the power bus levers or the tiny Dupont connectors on ESP32 (unless they want to).”
