Wanted to take this opportunity to introduce the OSR2+ g90ak Edition that I’ll be selling here - only on Eroscripts. Pictured here is a recent custom build - Blueberry Shift!
Why?
I’ve been building OSR2+’s for several years now and have been iterating and refining the open-source design. The g90ak Edition is not a total overhaul or redesign of the OSR2, but a critical look at every component focused on improvement. All of my design modifications and build techniques have been focused around reliability, ease of service, and performance. And yes, it’s still loud, especially with the cheap China servos. I’m not going to pretend it isn’t.
When I purchased my retail OSR2+ several years ago, I did not have a 3D printer or have a good idea what exactly the OSR2+ was. I just saw some cool grinding demo .gif and was sold. Reality was a bit more disappointing. One of the servos was broken on delivery, construction was poor, and the design was fragile overall. I threw it in the closet and went back to my Handy. However, I am a tinkerer at heart. After I got over my disappointment I began learning the design which was delightfully simple with a lot of room for improvement. Fast forward a few years, a few 3D printers, and shit ton of filament…and I’m now confident that the units I build are the opposite of disappointing.
My g90ak edition OSR2+ is designed for those looking for a build focused on quality and intelligent design. Nearly all of the open source printed components have been modified to support this focus on reliability, service, and performance.
My Mods
Here is my attempt at logging my upgrades/modifications to the original design which I think set it apart from other OSR2+’s being sold currently. If anyone wants any more pictures or details - don’t hesitate to ask. I am happy to share. I am confident that my work is high quality so I have nothing to hide!
Fancy threads - The original OSR2+ design calls for screws to be threaded directly into the plastic or into nuts (that fall out and make you very angry). These choices make tinkering frustrating and can easily cause failures due to stripped threads. To combat this, I’ve used brass heat press threaded inserts for all screw mounts other than the PCB (which I tap by hand with a real machine tap – using the actual screw to tap is a terrible practice). Utilization of these inserts provides strength and reliability. Tinkerers can take the unit apart over and over again without compromising the unit’s strength.
Keep them screws tight - As for fastener hardware, I utilize split washers and (removable) vibration thread lock where necessary. This should help avoid having to worry about tightening screws constantly. I still recommend users to check weekly/monthly depending on use.
Replace shit screws - I also immediately throw away any soft stainless steel screws included with the parts and replace them with hardened steel screws instead. Stock servo horn screws are the perfect example of this. The utilization of soft stainless steel for a TINY high stress screw is beyond stupid on the manufacturer’s part. Replacing the screws with hardened ones allows for servo replacement without fear of a stripped screw.
Keeping it hard… and smooth - All chassis parts are printed at 100% infill on a Bambu Labs printer at a 0.12 layer height utilizing PLA. Yes, it takes more plastic and much more time vs. utilizing a low rate of infill and taller layers. However, I feel that the rigidity and aesthetics are worth it. Since I’m not mass producing these at a high rate, I can take my time. Receivers are printed at lower infill rates to keep weight down and performance up. The exact infill rate depends on the material color as lighter colors can show infill patterns. I have also modified any thin walls to ensure that there is minimal flex no matter how the unit is handled. Pictured here is a substantial increase to the outside pitcher wall which I have seen crack in its original thickness.
Screw me - I am absolutely not a fan of any of the “snap-together” lids of the original design. The snap mechanisms of the lids broke off for me after just a couple of removals. In the g90ak Edition, both the main unit lid and the pitcher lid are affixed with screws and heat threaded inserts. Users can get to the guts of their g90ak’ed OSR2+ as many times as they want without fear of anything breaking.
A sinking feeling - Cooling was a big topic that I’ve gone back and forth on. Some servos can get hot (JX for sure), yet others are fine and cool. Adding a fan would ensure that hot servos run cool, but the fan introduces another point of failure and additional complexity. I’ve landed on utilization of heatsinks for the main servos to mitigate heat. The lack of moving parts and ability to stick/unstick the heatsinks a plus. I’ve used the same heatsinks and original adhesive several times without issue. If the adhesive fails, thermal tape is widely available on Amazon and easier to replace than a fan. If a user is specifically looking to upgrade to known super hot servos and needs cooling beyond the heatsink, I can add a fan.
Lid mods - The g90ak Edition lid has been dramatically redesigned most obviously to enable heatsink clearance, but to also fit the contours of the chassis better for a more seamless look. Additionally, bracing and material have been added to the lid to make it more rigid. This, combined with the chassis screw mounts, makes the entire OSR2+ very stiff as the components act together as a torsion box when joined.
I got small balls - I’ve been a big fan of the ball bearing swivel mounts since they came out. They feel much smoother and accurate than the rubber grommets. Additionally, they don’t require maintenance or replacing unlike the original rubber grommets which can wear out. In the g90ak Edition, the design has been modified to utilize smaller M3 ball bearings instead of the larger M4. This allows for me to fit heat press threaded inserts into the mounting points, allowing for better long term reliability and avoidance of using nuts. The smaller diameter of the M3 bearings also allows for a tiny bit more pitch/roll.
Avoiding crashes - The original pitcher arm design has the screws surface mounted. This caused issues with some taller servos and made the pitcher arm screws collide with the main left arm on occasion. I’ve modified the pitcher arm to allow the screws to sit deeper to avoid this and to allow for a wider range of servos to be utilized.
Turn me on (and off) - I utilize a large and VERY tactile power switch for the servo power. The reason is that many users enjoy their OSR2+s with VR. There is nothing worse than a blind post-nut search for a power switch with a VR headset on while the toy is beating your exhausted penis to oblivion. In this case, bigger is definitely better.
Don’t tie me down - The original design had a DC jack zip tied in place (yuck - so ghetto). The g90ak Edition’s power DC jack is a proper panel mount with an extended threaded barrel. It is properly locked into place with a spring washer and nut. Also, as there’s nothing worse than a power cord falling out of the unit in the middle of the session, users have the option to install a locking DC male plug to their power supplies for maximum peace of mind. I will include the matching DC jack - users will be responsible for installing it to their own power supply if they desire.
Power - The g90ak Edition uses the ESP32 board instead of the original Romeo board. Aside from being smaller, this requires the utilization of a separate power bus for the servos (a very good thing). I use Wago (or Wago-like) power connectors to lock in the power/ground wires and connect them directly to the power supply for maximum performance. The Wago connectors are locked into place with a ingenious holder designed by our very own @Telani. Wago connectors are some of the highest quality in the industry, used for residential and commercial high voltage applications. Using them here ensures maximum reliability and no loose wires!
Don’t get it twisted - All power cables are either directly soldered to the DC jack or power button or lever locked into the power bus. Data cables are properly crimped to Dupont connectors and plugged into the ESP32 board. I also use crimped ferrules for any other cable terminations (there are no raw wires). All solder joints are protected with heatshrink.
Fighting the spaghetti monster - One of the most daunting things about servo replacements or upgrades is remembering where all the damn wires go. With each servo having 1 data and 2 power wires – that’s 9 damn wires users need to keep track of. To avoid frustration and to facilitate easy replacement or upgrades, the g90ak Edition has separate clearly labeled wiring harnesses for each servo. It is truly plug and play when it comes to installing new servos (cable management is still needed, it’s small in there). Users will not have to touch the power bus levers or the tiny Dupont connectors on ESP32 (unless they want to).
I will continue to make improvements where I see fit (mainly because I can’t stop tinkering), but from here on out, they’ll likely be very incremental and not evolutionary.
How Do You Get One?
Cost/payment - I’ll be selling these for $160 PLUS shipping. I prefer to ship via large USPS Priority mail flat rate boxes which end up being about $25. Payment can be delivered through PayPal, Venmo, or Zelle.
Here’s why I think it’s a good deal.
As you can see from the bill of materials, building one yourself would cost about $97. However, most of the fasteners and hardware is purchased in packages, so your overall cost would be much higher if you’re only building a single unit for yourself. Moreover, the $97 cost is based on per-piece prices. In reality, it’s very difficult to purchase small exact quantities of fasteners and hardware. Purchasing packs of hardware/fasteners is closer to reality. The container/package price is approaching $400 and you’d be left with a fuck ton of fasteners and hardware you don’t need. Lastly, the bill of materials doesn’t include electricity, labor, a 3D printer, or my blood, sweat, and tears. I’m having a ton of fun with this hobby and am just looking for a very small revenue stream to justify buying more 3d printers and toys.
Drop Availability - Only a few units will be available each month. On the 1st of each month, I will reveal the unit colorways for drop that month. Sales will be first come first serve. Yes, “a few” is not many. I build each by hand and test them and this is all I’m able to commit to. I’m not willing to sacrifice quality for volume.
Other Misc Details
Colors - This will be rotating depending on what I think looks cool at the time. Lots of fun and wild colors will pop up with each drop.
What is included:
- The OSR2+ unit
- China servos
- Desk mount
- Fleshlight compatible receiver
What is not included but needed to use:
- A quality USB-C cable (WITH DATA LINES - some cables are power/charging only)
- A 6-7 volt power supply with 5.5x2.5mm plug with at least 5 amps. I will not provide a recommendation of any kind as manufacturers change so often and I cannot be responsible for their quality. EXAMPLE ONLY - https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01GHN2S7Q/
- A desk - The mount is designed to attach to a desk edge. Solutions for using it attached to a chair or bed would have to be devised separately.
Options:
- Servos - As shown in the bill of materials, there’s no secret to the cost of components. If a user would like better servos, I’m happy to swap them in and increase the unit cost accordingly.
- Omit desk Mount - If the user would prefer to source their own desk mount, then the cost will be $15 cheaper for a total unit price of $145
- Colors - Specific colors may be requested for future sale drops. Requests may be denied.
Boring Stuff
DOA policy - If there is damage in shipping to 3D printed parts, I will ship replacement parts via the most economical USPS method (may not be Priority class). Users will be responsible for installing themselves. If non-3D printed components such as servos or the logic board are not functioning, the user can attempt to repair the unit themselves, or return to myself for a refund of $160. The user is responsible for return shipping. The user is responsible for reporting DOA units within 10 days of package receipt. DOA policy only applies to unused units. Returned units showing evidence of wear will be discarded and no refund will be provided. This is a health concern as well as a policy.
Warranty policy - There is no warranty as I am not a business. Please look to other established retailers selling OSR units if this is an important factor.
User responsibility - I take zero responsibility for how users interact with this toy. Users take full ownership of avoiding self-harm, injury, or personal damages.
Shipping issues - I cannot take responsibility for lost packages or customs issues with shipping. Especially in the case of international shipping, there is a lot of nuance as to customs requirements and declarations. I will work with international customers to provide the correct documentation, declarations, and invoices requested. It is the customer’s responsibility to define those requirements in order for receipt to be a success.
FAQ
Can you recommend servo upgrades?
- I am very apprehensive to make any recommendations. Firstly, servos can break. I would feel terrible recommending expensive servos that only last short amount of time. While I know that I explicitly call out that I do not have a warranty, I would still feel bad as a human being. Secondly, EVERYONE seems to have very different impressions/tastes in servos. This is a combination of people’s penis length, girth, sleeve used, script material, preferred speed and force.
A good example is that many people prefer brushless servos, as they are faster and stronger than coreless. However, they are not as smooth and every single brushless servo I’ve used - I have not liked.
That being said, PLEASE take the below with a grain of salt.
Hitech D945sw - this is one of the smoothest servos I’ve tested, and most expensive. Noise wise, it varies from definitely quieter than china servos, to MUCH more quiet than china servos. I don’t think that sound profile is part of the QA process at any servo manufacturer, so there is variance from unit to unit. I have personally used these in my builds for years. My main unit is used 5-6 times a week for 10-20 min each session. I’ve only had 1 needing replacement in about 3 years. They are $90 each though. Very expensive investment in what can be considered a consumable part. Hitech has a very good reputation as a servo manufacturer and has been around for a very long time.
Flash Hobby M45CHW - I’ve only recently tested these and I can say that the 3 units I got were EXTREMELY quiet (even quieter than the Hitechs). They were also comparably smooth. I’ve found them very impressive for the price at $35 each. However, I have not tested them for long term use at all and cannot speak to their performance over time.
How much are servo upgrades?
- Cost for the servos can be calculated by taking the current cost of the china servos from my sheet. They’re currently at $39.74 (12/04/2023). Then you take the cost of whatever upgraded servos you want, and subtract $39.74 from that total. Make sure to account for tax.
Say your desired servos are $100 after tax. $100-$39.74 = $60.26
$160 + $60.26 = $220.26
Easiest way is to ensure that the servos you want are available on Amazon US and give me a link. I will purchase and install before shipping to you.
Can you upgrade the OSR2+ to incorporate other components?
- Twist, lube, heating units, etc. - I do not offer those. I personally do not feel that they justify the added complexity, noise, or points of failure. https://yourhobbiescustomized.com/ may be your best bet for a more upgraded OSR2+.
Is the g90ak Edition compatible with other upgrades?
- It ***should*** be compatible, as I have not changed the core dimensions or geometry. However, I have not tested any of the other upgrades with my current iteration of the g90ak Edition OSR2+, so I cannot confidently guarantee compatibility with other OSR2+ upgrades. Again, https://yourhobbiescustomized.com/ would be a good place to go if you're looking for ensured compatibility.
How will the drop work? How will buyer queues work?
- Queues will be recorded via post responses in a drop thread that will be posted on designated drop days. First post, first serve. I’ll go down the list and contact the first responders for payment and delivery info. If they drop out or don’t respond within 24 hours I will move down the list accordingly. Will be posted around midnight Eastern Time on the first of each month.
