OSR2+ g90ak Edition - Extremely Limited Availability - $160 + Shipping - Dropping Monthly Starting in 2024

Wanted to take this opportunity to introduce the OSR2+ g90ak Edition that I’ll be selling here - only on Eroscripts. Pictured here is a recent custom build - Blueberry Shift!


I’ve been building OSR2+’s for several years now and have been iterating and refining the open-source design. The g90ak Edition is not a total overhaul or redesign of the OSR2, but a critical look at every component focused on improvement. All of my design modifications and build techniques have been focused around reliability, ease of service, and performance. And yes, it’s still loud, especially with the cheap China servos. I’m not going to pretend it isn’t.

When I purchased my retail OSR2+ several years ago, I did not have a 3D printer or have a good idea what exactly the OSR2+ was. I just saw some cool grinding demo .gif and was sold. Reality was a bit more disappointing. One of the servos was broken on delivery, construction was poor, and the design was fragile overall. I threw it in the closet and went back to my Handy. However, I am a tinkerer at heart. After I got over my disappointment I began learning the design which was delightfully simple with a lot of room for improvement. Fast forward a few years, a few 3D printers, and shit ton of filament…and I’m now confident that the units I build are the opposite of disappointing.

My g90ak edition OSR2+ is designed for those looking for a build focused on quality and intelligent design. Nearly all of the open source printed components have been modified to support this focus on reliability, serviceability, and performance.

g90ak Edition OSR2+ Features

Here is my attempt at logging my upgrades/modifications to the original design which I think set it apart from other OSR2+’s being sold currently. If anyone wants any more pictures or details - don’t hesitate to ask. I am happy to share. I am confident that my work is high quality so I have nothing to hide!

Fancy threads - The original OSR2+ design calls for screws to be threaded directly into the plastic or into nuts (that fall out and make you very angry). These choices make tinkering frustrating and can easily cause failures due to stripped threads. To combat this, I’ve used brass heat press threaded inserts for all screw mounts. There is not a single screw that threads directly into plastic (yuck). Utilization of these inserts provides strength and reliability. Tinkerers can take the unit apart over and over again without compromising the unit’s strength.

Keep them screws tight - As for fastener hardware, I utilize split washers and (removable and plastic safe - Loctite will disintegrate 3D printed parts) vibration thread lock where necessary. This should help avoid having to worry about tightening screws constantly. I still recommend users to check weekly/monthly depending on use.

Replace shit screws - I also immediately throw away any soft stainless steel screws included with the parts and replace them with hardened steel screws instead. Stock servo horn screws are the perfect example of this. The utilization of soft stainless steel for a TINY high stress screw is beyond stupid on the manufacturer’s part. Replacing the screws with hardened ones allows for servo replacement without fear of a stripped screw.

Keeping it hard… and smooth - All chassis parts are printed at 100% infill on a Bambu Labs printer at a 0.12 layer height utilizing PLA. Yes, it takes more plastic and much more time vs. utilizing a low rate of infill and taller layers. However, I feel that the rigidity and aesthetics are worth it. Since I’m not mass producing these at a high rate, I can take my time. Receivers are printed at lower infill rates to keep weight down and performance up. The exact infill rate depends on the material color as lighter colors can show infill patterns. I have also modified any thin walls to ensure that there is minimal flex no matter how the unit is handled. Pictured here is a substantial increase to the outside pitcher wall which I have seen crack in its original thickness.

Screw me - I am absolutely not a fan of any of the “snap-together” lids of the original design. The snap mechanisms of the lids broke off for me after just a couple of removals. In the g90ak Edition, both the main unit lid and the pitcher lid are affixed with screws and heat threaded inserts. Users can get to the guts of their g90ak’ed OSR2+ as many times as they want without fear of anything breaking. I also use neat low profile screws to be sleek and cool looking.

A sinking feeling - Cooling was a big topic that I’ve gone back and forth on. Some servos can get hot (JX for sure), yet others are fine and cool. Adding a fan would ensure that hot servos run cool, but the fan introduces another point of failure and additional complexity. I’ve landed on utilization of heatsinks for the main servos to mitigate heat. The lack of moving parts and ability to stick/unstick the heatsinks a plus. I’ve used the same heatsinks and original adhesive several times without issue. If the adhesive fails, thermal tape is widely available on Amazon and easier to replace than a fan. If a user is specifically looking to upgrade to known super hot servos and needs cooling beyond the heatsink, I can add a fan.

Lid mods - The g90ak Edition lid has been dramatically redesigned most obviously to enable heatsink clearance, but to also fit the contours of the chassis better for a more seamless look. Additionally, bracing and material have been added to the lid to make it more rigid. This, combined with the chassis screw mounts, makes the entire OSR2+ very stiff as the components act together as a torsion box when joined.

I got small balls - I’ve been a big fan of the ball bearing swivel mounts since they came out. They feel much smoother and accurate than the rubber grommets. Additionally, they don’t require maintenance or replacing unlike the original rubber grommets which can wear out. In the g90ak Edition, the design has been modified to utilize smaller M3 ball bearings instead of the larger M4. This allows for me to fit heat press threaded inserts into the mounting points, allowing for better long term reliability and avoidance of using nuts. The smaller diameter of the M3 bearings also allows for a tiny bit more pitch/roll.

Avoiding crashes - The original pitcher arm design has the screws surface mounted. This caused issues with some taller servos and made the pitcher arm screws collide with the main left arm on occasion. I’ve modified the pitcher arm to allow the screws to sit deeper to avoid this and to allow for a wider range of servos to be utilized.

Turn me on (and off) - I utilize a large and VERY tactile power switch for the servo power. The reason is that many users enjoy their OSR2+s with VR. There is nothing worse than a blind post-nut search for a power switch with a VR headset on while the toy is beating your exhausted penis to oblivion. In this case, bigger is definitely better.

Don’t tie me down - The original design had a DC jack zip tied in place (yuck - so ghetto). The g90ak Edition’s power DC jack is a proper panel mount with an extended threaded barrel. It is properly locked into place with a spring washer and nut. Also, as there’s nothing worse than a power cord falling out of the unit in the middle of the session, users have the option to install a locking DC male plug to their power supplies for maximum peace of mind. I will include the matching DC jack - users will be responsible for installing it to their own power supply if they desire.

Power + Cable Nightmares - The g90ak Edition uses the ESP32 board instead of the original Romeo board. Aside from being smaller, this requires the utilization of a separate power bus for the servos (a very good thing). I have designed and manufactured a custom PCB board that handles all of the power and signal routing. The result is a MUCH neater wiring setup and clearly labeled connectors, so servo replacements or upgrades are a breeze for the end user. No more looking up crazy documentation to see which pin goes to which servo. Its truly plug and play.



I will continue to make improvements where I see fit (mainly because I can’t stop tinkering), but from here on out, they’ll likely be very incremental and not evolutionary.

How Do You Get One?

Cost/payment - I’ll be selling these starting at $160 PLUS shipping. Domestic shipping is usually $22.80 via USPS Priority. International shipping can range from $50-$100 Payment can be delivered through PayPal, Venmo, or Zelle. I only accept F&F payments. I am not a business and am operating on a VERY thin margin. I understand that this does not provide good protection for the buyer, but hope that my reputation here and my feedback alleviates any worries on the purchaser side.

Here’s why I think it’s a good deal.

As you can see from the bill of materials, building one yourself would cost about $97. However, most of the fasteners and hardware is purchased in packages, so your overall cost would be much higher if you’re only building a single unit for yourself. Moreover, the $97 cost is based on per-piece prices. In reality, it’s very difficult to purchase small exact quantities of fasteners and hardware. Purchasing packs of hardware/fasteners is closer to reality. The container/package price is approaching $400 and you’d be left with a fuckton of fasteners and hardware you don’t need. Lastly, the bill of materials doesn’t include electricity, labor, a 3D printer, or my blood, sweat, and tears. I’m having a ton of fun with this hobby and am just looking for a very small revenue stream to justify buying more 3D printers and toys.

Drop Availability - Only a few units will be available each month. On the 1st of each month, I will reveal the unit colorways for drop that month. Sales will be first come first serve. Yes, “a few” is not many. I build each by hand and test them and this is all I’m able to commit to. I’m not willing to sacrifice quality for volume.

Other Misc Details

Colors - This will be rotating depending on what I think looks cool at the time. Lots of fun and wild colors will pop up with each drop.

What is included in the base ($160) config:

  • The OSR2+ unit
  • 3x China servos
  • Desk mount
  • Fleshlight compatible receiver (Black Fleshlight case only. Clear Fleshlight cases may not fit properly)

What is included in the quiet ($265) config:

  • The OSR2+ unit
  • 3x Flash Hobby M45CHW servos
  • Desk mount
  • Fleshlight compatible receiver (Black Fleshlight case only. Clear Fleshlight cases may not fit properly)

What is not included but needed to use:

  • A M2.5 Allen key to install the desk mount
  • A quality USB-C cable (WITH DATA LINES - some cables are power/charging only)
  • A 6-7 volt power supply with 5.5x2.5mm plug with at least 5 amps or 35 watts+. More amps/watts is better. Do not exceed 6-7 volts. I will not provide a recommendation of any kind as manufacturers change so often and I cannot be responsible for their quality. EXAMPLE ONLY - Amazon.com
  • A desk - The mount is designed to attach to a desk edge. Solutions for using it attached to a chair or bed would have to be devised separately.


  • Servos - As shown in the bill of materials, there’s no secret to the cost of components. If a user would like better servos, I’m happy to swap them in and increase the unit cost accordingly.
  • Omit desk Mount - If the user would prefer to source their own desk mount, then the cost will be $15 cheaper for a total unit price of $145
  • Colors - Specific colors may be requested for future sale drops. Requests may be denied.
  • Adapters - Fleshlight Flight, Fleshlight Quickshot, Onahole, Handy, Kiroo Feel Stroker @ $10 each

Boring Stuff

DOA policy - If there is damage in shipping to 3D printed parts, I will ship replacement parts via the most economical shipping method. Users will be responsible for installing replacement parts themselves. If non-3D printed components, such as servos or the logic board are not functioning, the user can attempt to repair the unit themselves, or return to myself for a full refund minus original shipping fees. The user is also responsible for return shipping and appropriate packaging. The user is responsible for reporting DOA units within 10 days of package receipt. DOA policy only applies to unused units. Returned units showing evidence of wear will be discarded and no refund will be provided. This is a health concern as well as a policy.

Warranty policy - There is no warranty as I am not a business. Please look to other established retailers selling OSR units if this is an important factor.

User responsibility - I take zero responsibility for how users interact with this toy. Users take full ownership of avoiding self-harm, injury, or personal damages.

Shipping issues - I cannot take responsibility for lost packages or customs issues with shipping. Especially in the case of international shipping, there is a lot of nuance as to customs requirements and declarations. I will work with international customers to provide the correct documentation, declarations, and invoices requested. It is the customer’s responsibility to define those requirements in order for receipt to be a success.

International Customs Fees/Tariffs - Some countries will levy a import fee on incoming goods. This can vary from country to country. I am not responsible for calculating or paying those fees. It is up to the buyer to research, estimate, and pay those fees independently of any transaction with me.


Can you recommend servo upgrades?

    I am very apprehensive to make any recommendations. Firstly, servos can break. I would feel terrible recommending expensive servos that only last short amount of time. While I know that I explicitly call out that I do not have a warranty, I would still feel bad as a human being. Secondly, EVERYONE seems to have very different impressions/tastes in servos. This is a combination of people’s penis length, girth, sleeve used, script material, preferred speed and force.

    A good example is that many people prefer brushless servos, as they are faster and stronger than coreless. However, they are not as smooth and every single brushless servo I’ve used - I have not liked.

    That being said, PLEASE take the below with a grain of salt.

    Hitech D945sw - this is one of the smoothest servos I’ve tested, and most expensive. Noise wise, it varies from definitely quieter than china servos, to MUCH more quiet than china servos. I don’t think that sound profile is part of the QA process at any servo manufacturer, so there is variance from unit to unit. I have personally used these in my builds for years. My main unit is used 5-6 times a week for 10-20 min each session. I’ve only had 1 needing replacement in about 3 years. They are $90+ each though. Very expensive investment in what can be considered a consumable part. Hitech has a very good reputation as a servo manufacturer and has been around for a very long time.

    Flash Hobby M45CHW - I’ve only recently tested these and I can say that the 3 units I got were EXTREMELY quiet (even quieter than the Hitechs). They were also comparably smooth. I’ve found them very impressive for the price at $41 each. They were also the clear winners of a blind community servo sound test that I conducted here.
    UPDATE - I am now using the M45CHW in my Quiet model of the g90ak Edition OSR2+'s. The completed unit is $265, but subject to availability based on servo supply and build backlog…

How much are servo upgrades?

    Cost for the servos can be calculated by taking the current cost of the china servos from my sheet. They’re currently at $39.74 (12/04/2023). Then you take the cost of whatever upgraded servos you want, and subtract $39.74 from that total. Make sure to account for tax.

    Say your desired servos are $100 after tax. $100-$39.74 = $60.26
    $160 + $60.26 = $220.26

    Easiest way is to ensure that the servos you want are available on Amazon US and give me a link. I will purchase and install before shipping to you.

Can you upgrade the OSR2+ to incorporate other components?

    Twist, lube, heating units, etc. - I do not offer those. I personally do not feel that they justify the added complexity, noise, or points of failure. https://yourhobbiescustomized.com/ may be your best bet for a more upgraded OSR2+.

Is the g90ak Edition compatible with other upgrades?

    It ***should*** be compatible, as I have not changed the core dimensions or geometry. However, I have not tested any of the other upgrades with my current iteration of the g90ak Edition OSR2+, so I cannot confidently guarantee compatibility with other OSR2+ upgrades. Again, https://yourhobbiescustomized.com/ would be a good place to go if you're looking for ensured compatibility.

How will the drop work? How will buyer queues work?

    Queues will be recorded via post responses in a drop thread that will be posted on designated drop days. First post, first serve. I’ll go down the list and contact the first responders for payment and delivery info. If they drop out or don’t respond within 24 hours I will move down the list accordingly. Will be posted around midnight Eastern Time on the first of each month.

Do you have any feedback/reviews?


It looks so luxurious. If you told me its made by ferrari, id prob believe you lol


I held back from buying one of these because of durability worries but this puts my fears to ease.


With upgraded servos, what would the price be?

Depends on what servos. Pick the servos you want, subtract the cost of the china servos found in the bill of materials then add the difference to $160.

It will add lead time though as I’d have to order and swap them in.

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I love the design, only problem for me is that I don’t own any fleshlights. Would it be possible to get an onahole/smaller sleeve adapter in there somewhere?

Good question. I haven’t done a ton of research around onahole adapters - they all look kinda janky. I’d be apprehensive to include something I wasn’t confident in, but would be willing to print for a small fee. The buyer would have to find the 3d model and provide.

I do swear by the flashlight pilot adapter (use it exclusively) and would be happy to throw that in.

This truely looks incredible and thank you for sharing the material build list. Thats awesome. Are your upgraded 3D files that you are using available on the Tempest Discord Server?

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I’ve tried the pilot in the past and it was a miss for me. Unfortunately couldn’t find any STL files for any onahole adapters… guess that’s out of the picture for now.

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Not yet. They took a lot of learning and work, so I’m keeping them exclusive for a bit. I will eventually release them though.

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This design by vamrobot worked for me. Insert ona and fasten with velcro. You might want to wrap your toy with towel to prevent scratches.

It is janky… But very effective.

The open receiver designed by TempestMax also works. However it allows rooms of movement and thereby dampens roll and pitch movement by quite a bit

Very cool and these mods are great.

I would love to see this available…

Of course it needs your mods!

haha. yeah I’ve seen that one. Romeo board is a non starter for me, and I’d have to make it taller to fit the esp32, would start looking a little goofy IMHO.

The “modular”-ness of the original design has grown on me - will make for some cool color combinations without having to resort to multi color printing.

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fuck it, got some extra money coming in and heavily considering it. just a few questions.

  1. Barely know anything about the servos people tried. aware that you have servo changes on request, but do you have one that you recommend that’s more low sound focused if I do get one.

  2. does the design allow some other mods that aren’t included in the design (e.g twist, heated case, lube) to be used. I’d assume some of them can’t but not that knowledgeable on the osr2+. I could wire if it was necessary (have soldering skills, just don’t have a 3d printer of my own for current living reasons)

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Hi @imacarl! Some of your questions overlapped with others that I’ve gotten via PM, so I’ve incorporated my answers into a FAQ section at the bottom of the original post. Feel free to ask any more questions and I’ll be sure to answer. Thanks for the interest/engagement!

That’s the SR6 if I’m not mistaken. @M0SAIC sell those.

As someone who went the route of buying a 3d printer, learning to 3d print, building an osr2+ and tinkering with every option possible for it for a couple years, I think g90ak’s build in the configuration it’s being offered is ideal (although heat sinks are unnecessary imo). The other options available like twist, lube, valve top all have drawbacks that make me not use them even though I have the working parts in my closet. The real upgrade of OSR over other toys is full stroke range with a full size fleshlight. The way to get the most out of it is making sure all the subtlety of movement in a script gets transfered to the toy, and moves smoothly. Making the parts more rigid, and using the bearing joints like he’s done is good for that. The thing to focus on imo is a very solid base that won’t lose any of that subtlety by moving the base instead of the toy. I’d put your money into solving that before worrying about any other options or more expensive servos. I use the cheap servos myself and open them up to goop silicone grease all over the internal gearing to quiet them a bit before installing. Every servo I’ve tried has developed play in the movement eventually, so replacing the 2 primary cheapos every six months to keep it accurate/smooth is the best experience for the buck I’ve found.

One other thing every new OSR user should know is the NECESSITY of software speed limiting like available in MultiFunPlayer. OSR has no limit in the firmware like handy, so it is capable of breaking itself, or you, when (bad) scripters put in way too fast instructions expecting the handy’s firmware to fix their lazy nonsense.

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@nerb - thanks so much for the feedback! Sounds like we’ve been on similar journeys :slight_smile:

Me too. Until I heard of JX servos melting OSR2 chassis. Some people do think that keeping the servos cooler makes them last longer, but who knows. I thought as long as it didn’t add complexity or a point of failure, why not? I think they kinda look cool too :slight_smile:

100% agreed. This is why I felt the need to include the super sturdy desk edge mount by default (can be omitted if the user really wants to). Much more sturdy that people using spring adjustable monitor arms or other solutions while still providing 3 levels of height adjustment. Combined with the software adjustment for stroke range, I’m fairly sure it’ll cover most normal desk/chair combos.

This is one of the exact reasons I spend the extra time/money to fab the little servo harnesses. In addition to making the servos more easily replaced, it also makes it so you don’t have to modify the servos wires or plugs at all. This makes warranty (or other types of) returns easier. It’s been really helpful for me to test new servos to find ones that are too loud or don’t meet advertised specs and returning them.

Would get one if I wouldnt be totally buttfucked by import tax (EU)

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I have shipped units to europe and asia with lower declared values (I think it was $10) as - used hobby plastic robot parts, servos, and circuit board. Shipping was expensive though.