The Handy 2 Pro: Advanced Users

I have played with the handy a whole bunch since I received it yesterday. I realize this device has so much about it that hasn’t been publically talked about even in reviews.

You can find detailed info on the device under device info > full info
This is where I source detailed information about thehandy2

The charging situation

Firstly there’s been some reports about issues with charging
As of current firmware, you can charge with “slow chargers” but the handy needs to be off.
The idle power usage is still enough to slowly kill the handy while charging, which is why you should use a USB-PD charger (Minimum 65W). Below is a good option:

The internal battery is 3200mAh so if you want to use a powerbank, keep that in mind.
The BMS seems to be missing a lot of sensor data, so much of the details will be missing (for ex. my battery is always 0°C

Standard settings:

Slider

The full stroke length can be changed between 0 - 125mm
The starting and end can be changed.

  • What shows live is the setting currently (temprary in memory)
  • When you click store values, it will save these settings permanently
  • Calibrate will auto adjust to the full length
  • You can get the sliders current position by hitting the spinner beside the 10mm in the image
  • You can manually slide the slider up and down, hit the spinner and mark that as a position (top or bottom)

Don’t confuse the reverse slider option here with the inverted use option under base settings

Boot

  • Tick the “show unrecommended” just above the screenshot.
  • You’ll see the not recommended options here.
  • I recommend setting this to WiFi AND Bluetooth
  • until you’ve settled on how you want to use the handy with the settings
  • Then switching to a recommended boot mode

Base

Depending on how you use your handy you may want to invert the slider.
Inverse will actually reverse the entire handy.

  • The slider will reverse
  • The buttons flip behavior
  • LED matrix will flip
  • Hall sensor will flip (If you know you know)

In addition, The handy will automagically turn off from idle
0 means it will never turn off.

  • I have it set to zero since I need it on to write this review
  • It is 0 by default but you should change this. I generally use 600 (10 mins)

The button steps change the mm it adjusts the length by.
For ex.

  • If set to 10, and my top is 125, pressing down will make it adjust to 115mm
  • Expanding configure each individual will show you:
    • HAMP Velocity steps
    • HAMP Stroke length steps
    • HVP Amplitude steps
    • HVP Frequency steps
    • HRPP Speed steps

Adjusting the brightness doesn’t do a lot besides kill your battery faster
The lights don’t change much to be noticable

Overclock

Now for the main attraction. The overclock options.
There’s a few profiles that you can quickly flip between for different usecases

  • Silent profile - optimised for quite use, slower than normal operations (32mmps - 300mmps)
  • Default profile - The settings the handy uses with no overclock (32mmps - 450mmps)
  • Fast profile - Faster than the default profile but not crazy fast (20mmps - 600mmps)
  • Maximum profile - As fast as is possible without immediate damage, (but can cause damage) (15mmps - 1200mmps)
  • Custom Profile - Your personally customized profile, however you wish to configure your handy

Can I use the maximum profile?

After experimenting with the settings and monitoring the heat levels, I can say I personally use the maximum profile. You should know these caveats:

  • Just because the maximum profile is selected, does not mean your scripts will always go that fast.
  • The maximum profile ONLY unlocks the max speed.
  • You can safely use the max profile with scripts as long as those scripts aren’t constantly going in the 900 - 1200 range
  • Your handy will heat up faster
  • This can be dangerous, you should always maintain a full erection prior to going these speeds, you can easily injure yourself if you slip out
  • The max speed is not actually 1200 (more on that later)

What is the fastest this device can go

Under the overclock settings I will go over later there is an ABS motor speed limit setting (absolute speed limit)
This is because though technically the “limit” is 1200mmps, that metric is measured in 0 - 125mm stroke length.
If you reduce this (say 40 - 60mm), your handy can greatly exceed the 1200mmps speed
I DO NOT Recommend increasing this setting, it will likely break your handy.

Settings

Ignoring the following settings because they’re not relevant to overclock, only conveniently here to play with: Remote control, Slider Endpoint

Slider

  • Minimum Speed - This is the slowest the handy can go, going too low will make the handy feel like it’s “skipping”
  • Max speed - High impact sexual violence

  • This is the distance between the top of the slider (default 125mm) and when the handy will stop to prevent smacking the top of the device
  • By default this is 10mm and looks like an inch from the top.
  • Check the best performance below
  • You can change this to 0 if you don’t let it go to the top

  • This is the distance that the motor will allow for “slowing down before changing direction”
  • It’s perfectly safe to be 0, but at higher speeds, maybe change this to 5 - 10mm so reduce a bit of noise

  • This is a speed limit around the end of the slider
  • 0 means it matches the end buffer exactly (if the end buffer is 10, this is 10, if this is 5, end buffer is 10 but we will enforce a speed limit 5mm before the end buffer (15mm)
  • The speed limit itself is semi-meaningless, it shouldn’t really be changed but you can if you’re into that. I only recommend bringing this down.

  • This is your “real limit” on how fast your handy can go.
  • I actually don’t recommend changing this unless you want to reduce it.
  • I keep this at 1600mmps

  • This is your handy guardrails for heat.
  • The handy will trigger it’s overheating when you have long sessions around 80°C
  • The motor can safely operate up to 100 - 110°C (source being @handyAlexander)
  • 130 - 140°C will likely destroy your motor
  • Keep this at the profile’s recommended level (110 should be the max when on 1200mmps)

Overclock Best Performance (According to my handy)

Slider Endpoint: 5 - 124mm * Adjusting this means adjusting the End buffer
Slider Speed: 1 - 1200mmps
Slider End buffer: 5mm * Changing this means more stroke length, but you might smack the ends
Motor Turn behavior: 0mm
Slider End zone speed limit: 0 size | 200mmps
Motor speed limits: 15 - 1600mmps
Motor temperature: 0 offset | 110 Trigger | 10 hysteresis

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Thanks for this write up! I missed the “Base” section earlier somehow. My handy was set to 3600 second timeout either from the factory or after the firmware upgrade to 4.1 - not 0 / always on. Also worth noting that reversing the slider does NOT automatically invert the display.

I should clarify there’s 2 settings here.
“Reverse Slider” - Only reverses the slider
“Inverted use” - reverses everything

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Thanks for the write up! I am just now playing with the settings. Do you have recommended performance/safety values. I was thinking 15 for min speed and 600 or 650 for max. Thoughts?

I’m actually configured for the 1200mmps. The maximum profile actually works pretty well, and doesn’t have issues for me.

That said, I wouldn’t advise that if you’re just using the manual control. Using with scripts is fine as far as I can tell assuming the scripts you’re using don’t constantly move at top speeds.

The maximum profile in the context of scripts is that it unlocks the max speed. Going to those speeds as far as I can tell is fine in short bursts. I wouldn’t recommend going at top speed for more than a minute at a time. That will quickly heat up the handy and the thermal safety will trigger.

You should also consider your dick and whether you’re comfortable with something with that much power and speed being near it.

I personally am fine with it while maintaining an erection. I highly advise calibrating the slider limits to your length. This going to 125mm is the first time I’ve ever slipped out. #bigdickprivilege but for real if you’re average size it’s definitely going to need to be adjusted so you don’t slip out.

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I got the same privilege, so that’s not a concern. I was more worried about the handy sleeves being to tight for bigger girth. Only tried the gen 3 but I heard others like the lips are not for bigger members. Time will tell.

My issue is that I do like to hold on after I have popped. Erection quality diminishes eventually (despite my willpower). I will probably never feel safe at that top speed and scripting as accurately as possible, I don’t think speeds past 800 are realistic in anyway. I wonder at what point in the min speed the the hitching happens.

Lol I also suffer that problem. The gen3 sleeve that comes with the handy 2 is perfect for me.
I bought the touch sleeve

It’s pretty tight and needs a bit more lube or it hurts a bit, but this is coming from someone who has sworn off all tenga products for being too small. I have ripped most of the toys I’ve bought.
If anyone remembers the sleeve they used to sell that I forget the name of that’s very durable. I still use it.

For context, I bought: rowan and duke Both are ripped a little.

Anyone having problems with:

  • Battery level: It always says 100% despite use

  • Problems with the slider going full bottom down during downstrokes at moderate to fast speeds (250-400 u/s). At slow speeds I can really feel the torque pushing all the way down, but at repetitive up and down patterns of -I’d say upwards of 250u/s- the slider has problems dealing with the resistance offered by my body and is unable to get to the bottom (I use the device fully inverted, overclocked to the 600mm/s preset).

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@VladTheImplier, when you set the inverted option, did it actually work? Mine will invert the stroke, but it won’t invert the display. When I check the box for the display, it acts like it takes it but then nothing changes. When I reopen the settings, the box has unchecked itself.

I use the device fully inverted. Slider, buttons, LED Matrix, everything. No problem whatsoever in that regard at least.

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I have been using 1200mm max and 1mm for weeks now and it has been fine. I am pretty sure I’ve been using it the most so far lol.

I’ve had the same issue with battery readings, so did multiple people on their discord. I noticed it eventually starts going down after multiple hours without charging, It almost seems like it thinks it’s the regular H2 (just my uninformed little theory)
Only times where the battery readings were accurate: during first charge, before pairing it to the app. After a factory reset, before pairing it to the app. (FW 4.1).

In the help center they suggest resetting the MCU. Didn’t test it yet as it involves poking a small hole through the silicone. (Shouldn’t be problematic)

Specifically, no issues on the slowest movements? Any shuddering movements they mentioned?

Nope, all fine and well. Have sound issues though but am super early batch so there is that. Also need some better grease. Otherwise the 1mm/s is amazing.

I have the first one for sure. I’ve been in touch with support but haven’t really gotten anywhere yet.

As for the latter, I’ve had this happen if there’s not enough lube or the band is tightened too much. I use open sleeves so I have to add lube quite often.

How does the mmps translate in terms of units/s scripting via OFS? Have we found a good speed limit to conform to for creating scripts that unlock Handy 2 capabilities?

So I just got my Handy 2 Pro, and I seem to be having both of those issues. After the initial charge the reading stays at 100%.

I too am using it inverted with the hand hands-free mount. It seems if it get’s any resistance from my body, it doesn’t go fully down. If I adjust the mount so the sleeve is barely resting on my body, it seems to go the full range. I didn’t have to do this with the original Handy.

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Make sure you are on the latest firmware - 4.1. It definitely works then at least.

Interesting. This issue is what I saw with the Handy 1 - and the reason I was excited for the H2P. I did have to turn on the overclock to maximum to unlock the full experience though.

Yeah, I’ve ripped a few pubes out with both the original and H2P by leaving it too close to my body. The H2P at least does it faster? :smiley:

I didn’t care for the Gen 3 as much as the Gen 2 personally. The Gen 2 seems to have the widest girth of all the sleeves, which accommodates my anatomy best. Most of the sleeves with the H1 wouldn’t move much because of the resistance. I was hoping to use the H2P with the tighter sleeves, but so far that’s been mostly a bust. I can use the blue “Core” sleeve to decent effect with the H2P overclocked at least. Still need to experiment with some of the others.

I generally start soft. If I haven’t taken a Viagra then it takes a bit to warm up. I really miss the rigid frame I had for my H1 when trying to use sleeves with the H2 and just a strap. A friend sent me a 3D printed version of the double strap setup for the H2 - but the print wasn’t resilient enough to handle the straps being threaded. I’m looking forward to the official version coming soon (hopefully).

Hopefully there’ll be a similar rigid option for the H2 soon.

Thought I’ll jump in with another problem since a few issues have already been described here.

Handy 2 Pro, FW 4.1, Wi-Fi connection. When I use overclocking, the device only delivers full stroke length at full speed when i’m in manual mode. As soon as I switch to a simple 0-100 funscript with moderate to high speed, the slider keeps up to an inch short of the endpoints. If I go back to manual: full strokes at max speed. Back to funscript: reduced stroke length again.

I first thought that this might be related to the end buffer settings, but I’ve never touched those. And i guess the buffer should also apply in manual mode, which works perfectly without any issues.

Could this be related to the script players I’m using? I’m using either HandyControl or DeoVR. Feels like these have some kind of built-in limitation.

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The 65w charger is really surprising.
I had to contact the support page for them to be able to inform about the requiered charger, and not freely being able to use any regular usb-c port.