The SR1 2.0, equipped with a 360° twist module, is now available

The MFP looks great, but it defeats the idea.
I don’t want to use a bridge between PC and Quest.
@Falafel I see that you did a review of the device. By chance do you have HereSphere to test if the Bluetooth connection to the SSR1 is possible?

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Looks great. Will I be able to use it with Oculus 3 directly with Sexlikereal.com, just like i use the Keon Kiiroo?

Is there a mount that can connect to the Keon Pillow support?
Not really interested in sitting in front of a desk.

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link only links to what seems to be the mount.
Where can I order the complete kit?

A product has many SKUs, and you can view the items by switching between them. It can connect to SLR through the interfaces of OSR2 or SR6. You can purchase the stand separately, as the support for different positions depends on the stand, not the device

When it arrives in the mail, does the package show the contents or is it all hidden? I have a roommate…

Is there an explanation or manual explaining what each button does?
Quick edit: What brands does the twist module fit? (kiiroo, fleshlight, others?)

The diameter can be between 9 and 10 cm. Press and hold the button in the middle for 3 seconds to start; the buttons on the left and right are for increasing and decreasing speed.

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It is a sealed package, so it should not be identifiable

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I bought one of these – how do you keep the fleshlight sleeve secure in the little insert where it locks into place. All the ones I have sit in there too loose for very much, especially with rotation added it comes off right away.

I’m not sure if the issue you’re experiencing is due to not tightening it enough.
If the FL is a standard size, it should snap into place, though it may take a bit of technique.
If the FL is a smaller size, you can add some padding to tighten it.
If that still doesn’t work, there’s another option: remove the outer casing and use the other receiver to directly secure the inner sleeve.

I read someplace that the different color FL cases vary somewhat in size, even though they are for the same size insert. Maybe someone can confirm.

@renwoxing @sparkyman or anyone else – what color and age are your cases for FL’s? I’ve got 2 types – one is slightly off white (comes with the porn star ones like Riley Reid) and one is clear (comes with the blue “turbo” series). Both of them just sit loosely in the device even once you do a hard twist to the left. They slide to the left to “lock in” both neither of them are actually locked in any way.

With the SR6 I have I can wedge something in to hold it tight, but the 360 twist makes adding any sort of “wedge” hard to impossible.

I have had some success taking it out and using it with the “converted” the twist module came with to work on onaholes – but that’s not as good as if they case just locked in as designed.

This problem of an FL case failing to securely lock into place was well documented in the Tempest discord where the OSR 2 was introduced. Tempest mad the .stl for the modular FL case partially because of this. But the printers don’t all print the same either so it also has issues for some. We can thank FL for this problem - but they have no need to make their case to much of a specification.

I have used various kinds of tape over the locking bumps on the cases to help. (Electrical tape works well but becomes a mess when the lube dissolves the adhesive. Yuk!)

My final solution was to print the modular case after a re-mmix of the .stl making the bumps slightly taller, and then filing them as needed to fit tightly in the twist. (Actually I think that the modular case as tempest designed it should work with the SR1 without modification.)

Good luck, it is well worth the effort to get a good fix.

I have this problem with the FunSR1 2.0 as well, even though the exact same FL (Stoya) works well with the FunSR1 1.0 FL adapter. Quite disappointing considering that was the main reason I upgraded. On top of that, 1.0 adapters aren’t compatible with the new locking mechanism, so even when ignoring twisting, it’s still a problem.

These are some of the .stl’s provided by FUNOSR to me when I was making some mods to the toy mounting. People could always make edits to the mounting locks to fit their specific toy better.

If you make something cool come post it on the discord!

Rename these to .stl instead of .json after downloading

twist sr6 步进V1.2–PETF2.json (2.3 MB)
卡扣板.json (543.6 KB)
背板.json (452.6 KB)

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I have not tested (or printed) these yet but I have made a .stl of the twist gear (using stl’s provided by our own FUNOSR) that should work with the kiiroo feelstroker cases. This is created using tinkercad and it was mashed together from the adapter that Tempest had created for the kiiroo feelstroker to fit on the og version of the sr6 and the FUNOSR twist gear.

My understanding is this SHOULD work on both the FUNOSR SR6 and SR1 2.0 Twist.

This might work with the Kiiroo Keon Dildo Adapter too.

Print each piece then click together (glue should be optional according to the Tempest’s og post). Should end up looking like this picture.

Rename these to .stl instead of .json after downloading


SR6 and SR1 2.0 Twist FeelStroker Adapter Top.json (825.0 KB)
SR6 and maybe SR1 2.0 Twist FeelStroker Adapter Bottom.json (465.1 KB)

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I’m not a 3d modeler nor 3d printer, so I’m not sure how to really resolve this, but whey do we keep trying to adapt the twist module to the ever-changing specs from Fleshlight – why hasn’t someone just created a new “case” for the FL inserts that locks into the SR1/SR6 properly?

Like I’ve said, the adapter for the SR1 2.0 locks perfectly into place with the twist module, so can’t we just extend this up and turn it into a proper fleshlight-case and simply move the inserts into it? Seems like the simplest solution to me.

Tempest made the modular case that can be 3d printed that solves this problem. You can also add usb powered heater mats inside to give it a warm more real feel.

@renwoxing I think my Funosr 2.0 is defective. I had the unit plugged into my computer and then suddenly states “power surge on USB port” I tried using a different cable and still the same thing. The green power light doesn’t light up and the buttons do not work. The only thing that is lit up is a red dot from the board. Please help I asked in the discord as well and have not had any reply.


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