Is pla not a bit brittle though and likely to crack up more than petg. Also, I’m still relatively new to 3d printing but my bambu lab a1 was quite fast with petg and prints have been strong - I’d rather print with petg than pla that would only to crack up later.
depends on what brand of PLA / PETG you use 
like always the more pricey it gets the better the quality , if you buy cheap pla / petg the more likely it’s going to break .
it’s quite the same as you buy a new graphics card for your pc if you want quality and performance you will need to get the new RTX 4090 TI ( around 3700 € ) , if you don’t want to spend like you won the lottery you could get a RTX 2060 (around 200€ ) but the quality is way less than buying the RTX 4090 TI
I wish i could afford a pc let alone a graphics card 
- Yep, I agree about the filament though I have only ever used bambu labs basic pla and petg so far. Looking forward to trying the petg-pc too with the hardened hotend on a A1 in a few months though.
than your gonna be very pissed off 
i own 2 computers 
1st computer
AMD Ryzen 9 7950X 3D Chip
NZXT N7 B650E Motherboard
64GB DDR5 Ram Viper Venom RGB
Lian Li Ghalahad II 360 LCD-INF AIO
6x Lian Li Inf Fans
3x Corsair ML120 RGB Fans
2x Thermaltake Fans
1000 Watt Corsair Power Supply
RTX 3060 Eagle OC12GB
1x 18TB HDD Seagate Barracuda
1x 8TB Hdd Seagate Ironwolf
1x 4TB M.2 Crucial SSD
ThermalTake The 500 White midi case
2nd computer
Asrock B550 motherboard
AMD Ryzen 7 5800x
16 GB DDR4 Corsair Vengeance Ram
Artic Freezer II 240MM AIO
1x 256GB Aorus M.2 SSD
1x 1TB Samsung HDD
1x 1TB Toshiba HDD
3x Coolermaster ML120RGB Fans
1x Hyte 120MM Fan
750 Watt NZXT power supply
Hyte Y60 Case with Screen mod added to the side
Not at all - Good on ya for having some good custom taste. I’ll get a decent one someday.
@g90ak may beg to differ… And I want to learn about this too.
Apparently a lot of factors comes into play. PETG is more temperature and UV resilient that’s for sure.
From what I have briefly read about g90ak’s pla parts, they are 100% infill and at 0.12 layer height and printed by a bambu lab printer and probably with bambu lab basic pla - So thats all good and should do fine. Petg might be a bit more expensive but last longer from not absorbing moisture but I think we are talking like 2 years plus but could be wrong.
Maybe this can help… but either should suffice, especially if printed by a good printer with good filament as possible with bambu lab
@Dani-Joeri Is it okay for you if I change the topic name and move it to DIY.
The topic is more like “Handsfree Cup buy or print yourself” now. The informations are good but not in the right category.
yes you can move the topic
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then why did you even respond to this ?
usefull comments … nothing to see here is useless , this should not count . @Falafel is this the way to get to a new thrust level ?
I know this is a necro thread, but missed the tag earlier from @falafel, so thought I’d make the best of the unnecessary re-up.
Lots of factors go into the durability of a part. Here’s a few bullets/thoughts in no particular order.
- GENERALLY… PLA is stiffer, PETG is more temperature resistant and flexible. PETG will bend more before it cracks. PLA will resist bending, but will snap before PETG.
- Due to these qualities, PLA is preferable for most OSR parts - where you do NOT want flexing - arms, chassis, etc.
- For parts that are designed to clamp/flex - like the “cup” in this discussion, PETG may be a better choice. However, this part doesn’t seem to be under that much stress (other than the mounting point), so either material should be good.
- Bambu labs printers, when using the stock profiles tuned for speed, have issues with layer adhesion. Prints may look good, but they may not be as strong. I personally run my machines MUCH slower than the speed limits to ensure good layer adhesion.
- Lower layer height and line width make things look better and smoother, but larger nozzle tips and wider line widths actually are better for strength, as the “fatter” lines adhere to each other better.
- Solid infill is the strongest, but can be wasteful/heavy. I use it anyways on anything that doesn’t have weight concerns
There is SO MUCH more that goes into 3d printing strength, those are just some basic “rules” as a starting point. Happy to have further discussion if there any clarification desired.
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