I do not like bumps in my sleeves. One of my favorites is using the original Handy truegrip sleeve inside out, pretty much just a plain and smooth area. The problem is inside out it doesn’t have a rim preventing the lube to run out. So I decided modify my truegrip gen 2 sleeve that I don’t use anyway (since it has bumps and inside out is has structure as well).
I cut away the bumps using scissors, very easy. But the surface isn’t that smooth so I was thinking about warming, maybe ironing it, to make it plainer and smoother. Anyone tried modifying TPE using heat? Or any other suggestions on how to make my sleeve smooth?
…i’ve had mixed results trying to repair a broken doll. A heat gun is useful, run up to about 150C, play it over the surface, then quickly smooth it down with the back of a hot spoon. Works well for restoring rough textures to smooth. Also, you can cut TPE really easily with a soldering iron, and you can use the soldering iron to smooth the material down as well, though it can be very aggressive, so go very slowly. i would recommend a temp adjustable soldering iron / heat gun set up if you can get your hands on one, but it’s not a biggie, just go carefully. Also different TPE’s have different melting points, so doll temps might be different to sleeve temp, but it’s just basic trial and error.
Note, i assume you’ll flip the sleeve inside out to work it, that’s gonna cause the inner nubby layer that’s now on the outside to be under stretching tension round the circumference, and the heat might cause it to pull apart, or split even if you dig in too deep. Another thing to be cautious about is all. Any cracks will just seal up when it’s reinverted, i’d guess.
Oh, and ventilate the room! TPE fumes are fucking noxious…
It’s very doubtful you will achieve a smooth surface. I’ve used heat several times to enlarge the diameter of a sleeve and it’s very easy to ruin one. A soldering iron will most likely leave a rough surface, depending on type of tip, and would need to be temperature controlled way below the melting point of solders. A soldering station with adjustable temp and air for surface mount devices has helped me repair holes in some poorly made Vorze sleeves but it was difficult and I don’t think I ever achieved the results you’re looking for. Using a heat gun on low heat will work too but it’s almost impossible to judge when you’re at the right temp and getting a few degrees above or the gun a few inches too close is disasterous. I wish I had better advise and hope that somebody on here can help you with a solution. Good luck and let us know if you figure out a way to do it.
The trick to shaping TPE is to get it just above its molding temp. Go even a little too high and you’ll burn the plastic.
The type of tool that would normally be used for this is a steam heated mold.
For a home workshop, the closest you may be able to do is set up a mold with an aluminum fixture encasing an oil moderated heating element.That’s not impossible to make, but it’s definitely out of reach for typical users.
…yea, almost forgot, an infrared thermometer is essential, so you know what temp the material has reached. But as everyone is pointing out, it’s a dubious strategy. Fun to watch the TPE rip itself to pieces when you fuck up though…!
Thanks everyone! This does sound tricky. Might try to rub it with fine wet sand paper or polishing compound instead.
I do wonder if you have tried the lotus sleeve as it is their smoothest one, the only downside is that its a very tight sleeve. And this tightness can make it anoying to use since it realy wants to push you out.
I think that the handy devs should make a more wide smooth sleeve themselve anyway. The handy is that powerful that even an effectively weak sleeve can still end up being quite intense.
…hopefully @burningshroom will still be able to go into production of custom sleeves at some point. There are so many technical innovations one can make to the basic design of sleeves (that are essentially designed from the ground up for a human to hold in their hand and masturbate with), which would make them far more compatible with a machine that grips with a strap, and moves at 600ms (or wtvr)…
Yes! The lotus is my favourite. A less tight lotus (maybe open-ended) would be perfect.
Praying to @handyAlexander for less intense sleeves with little or no texture. Totally agree that the Handy+strap is so powerful in itself and real mouths/vaginas/asses are not full of bumps inside.
Im normaly not a fan of open ended for cleaning reasons. I then have to resolve to using a condom to make them effectively closed end again (using a very oversized one applied over the sleeve, so the open end effect is still there).
I think that when sleeves are very smooth, the little suction provided by not being open ended can still be more beneficial. But when sleeves are softer (like the gen2 sleeve is), it might be that the suction becomes ignorable as the sleeve can just stretch in any direction. The gen2 sleeve is soft enough that suction is basicly not there, while the lotus is sturdy in such way it is there.
And otherwise, you can cut it open, the other way around is more difficult. Idealy they could release 2 versions though.
I have forward your prayers to the design team:-)
Ah yeah! I should update you guys about that!
A lot of stuff happened that slowed me down, but I have started test casting! I’m starting light with shore 00-10 due to its low cost. I’m also trying various resins and filaments to gauge what my best option for mold material would be.
Just wanted to say that this is genius, I’ve just ordered two open-ended sleeves from the Handy store and was wondering what to do about them if I hate them being open ended. Kudos to you!
I was so disappointed with the Lotus sleeve!
The narrow middle section is just too tight, and the material of the newer Generation sleeves is also much more rigid than the TrueGrip Gen 1. I wish they would offer the same sleeve design in different sizes to accommodate people with a wider girth.
Noted! I have shared this with the HW team