Questions for upgrading from my Handy to OSR2+/OSR6 given my circumstances

I have a handy but am currently looking for an upgrade, either FUNOSR’s SR6+Twisting+T-Valve or the OSR2+Twisting (T-valve doesn’t seem that appealing). I have a few questions I hope someone can help with.
(FYI, I don’t have access to a 3d printer.)
Would you say it is worth the $150 difference between the SR6 and the OSR2+Twisting?
Also, how would you recommend mounting them? I have a broken stand/sitting desk where I have around 8 inches from the top of the desk to the low point, is that too much?
Would a floor mount like this or this work (maybe add weights to the bottom)? Or is there a better option?
Let me know if you need additional info and thanks for help in advance.

Hi, g90ak osr2+ owner here.

Depends on the scripts & vids you prefer. Most scripters here focus on single axis which if fine because MFP (multifunplayer) has a randomizer for the other axis. OSR2+ is a fine starting point since pitch & roll is all you need for immersion. The twist function is only really for the BJ type scripts but I’ve only seen a few scripters make twists funscripts.

If you can afford it, I don’t see the harm in going all out in purchasing the sr6. I’m also looking to upgrade from osr2+ to sr6 w/twist mainly because some of the onaholes I want to get are on the heavier side. But other than that, I’ve been very happy with my osr2+.

As far as mounting goes, I believe that any vesa mount should work with the osr2+ & sr6 since thats the specifications tempest released to the public.

If you haven’t already, search through the forums and read up on some of the previous posts. There are some good reviews from falafel and g90ak. There’s also a topic about mounting from zalunda if youre interested. Let me know if you need help finding them.

Thanks for the reply. I have read quite a bit on the forum. Is the floor mount practical was more my line of thinking given my desk situation, or were there other options. The zalunda post refers to a desk clamp (which probably won’t work because I need it to be lower than the table) and he wasn’t happy with it or a 3d printed one which I can’t do. Given that onaholes are also a reason for my upgrade, what weight is the OSR2 good for? SR6 says 1200. Thanks.

in theory, the floor mounts seem like it should work fine. The osr2+ & sr6 should be able to mount on just fine.

Weight and drag are what you need to keep in mind with the OSR2+. The less weight
you ask the servos to move, the better they will perform. They’ll be quicker, more
forceful, smoother, and last longer. Additionally, you may not want to use your
tightest sleeve, as increased drag will have the same detrimental effects as
increased weight.

The heaviest ona I used on it was about 900g and that was only with the legendarylootz slow script. My other ona’s that I use frequently weigh 330g/370g/400g with scripts ranging from slow to speed demon and my servos haven’t had any issues so far since getting my osr2+ on March 20 of this year.

Hope this info helps.

1 Like

The first thing you should look at I believe when considering upgrading from an Handy to an multi-axis device is if multi-axis movement is for you. How?
Use your hand to make said movements.

Afterwards deciding on an OSR2 or an SR6…the main thing is to decide there is simply how many axis of movement do you want? As OSR2 has only two while the SR6 has 5, twist adds on an extra axis. Same with also price as the SR6 isn’t cheap by any means and an OSR2 is cheaper and thus an easier way to see if multi-axis is for you and not regret decisions so hard. However if you like multi-axis and then want to get an SR6 you can reuse most parts of the OSR2 in making an SR6…if your DIY-tech savey which is something else…

When purchasing one of these devices and also an SSR1…you need to understand that if it breaks or has an issue…you are the one that needs to get parts and fix it as while pre-builders will usually give you an warranty period of a few months, anything after that and simply diagnosing the problems will require yourself to take a screwdriver and take apart your device. It won’t be easy for someone who hasn’t opened up and fiddled with tech devices before as it isn’t as simple as triangle hole goes in triangle hole as some bits can go in the wrong place despite them all having their own home. Here’s the tools I’ve needed for my SR6:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0001P18MI/ (you’ll only need this for the circuit board)
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07V5WYXP5/
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000Y8J7WA/ (I think this is exactly what I got, not sure as I got mine from a local store)

Now comes looking at mounting/fixing the devices of where now that you know what device your getting, you know how much force that device is giving since the SR6 has double the servo’s than the OSR2. So it can more easily shake an stand or an desk even. As a result I would give caution against the floor mounts (I haven’t tried one) you’ve provided since the top of that mount will probably sway badly if the entire thing doesn’t come free from the weights you place on it. (The devices are CHUNKY size wise so allow 30cm of length from the mount to yourself)
Instead what’s best is getting and monitor mount that attaches to your desk which isn’t gas powered and can be fixed into position. I’ve recently gotten this and it has worked well for me: Amazon.com: Monoprice Essential Single Monitor Desk Mount - VESA 100x100, Up to 22lbs, 180 Swivel, Tilt +/- 90, 360 Rotation, Black : Electronics
You can combine/change parts of these desk mounts to a degree usually if you look at them carefully enough so if one has too short of an mounting pole, but the actual holding mount is great then you can order it and an different mount that has a suitable pole and switch the holding mounts to make up the the difference.
There is an option of doing Zalunda’s desk arm since as you may spot it is on an desk pole mount which can be turned upside down to then has it so instead of going only up, it can go down. Making is doesn’t require you to use an 3D printer since you should be able to find someone else to print the parts and send them to you. (E.g https://www.treatstock.com/ I haven’t used this site but looks decent) So you’ll have to just do the assembly alongside getting the non-3D printed bits which usually an hardware store will have or amazon should have.

Now after all that are two more things, scripts and sleeves/onaholes. Scripts that are full on multi-axis are outnumbered a ton on this site by single axis ones, probably at least 100:1 ratio. There’s some single axis which have twist axis added on to them or some multi-axis bits like roll and surge, but not the full thing. So it will take time for your to build up an library of multi-axis scripts to get to use your device to it’s fullest. But useful thing is that you can still use single axis scripts on it so you’ll have plenty of those to keep you entertained in the meantime.
For sleeves/onaholes I believe for the SR6 the weight limit of it so it can move at full speed is roughly 800g but I haven’t personally put that to the test. However speed your aiming for does matter since you can go for a bit heavier if your going slower. HOWEVER (x2) this all depends on the servo’s you use…because if you use an 30kg servo instead of say an 45kg servo then the weight limit of the device is less compared to one with 45kg servos. This is where torque comes into play once more and well in the past when I realized I didn’t know how Torque is calculated…I then went searching around and found this that ended up making me realize that while the servos had an 35kg torque…due to the distance from the servos to the point of placing torque (maybe 10 cm I think I measured of my SR6) their actual torque goes way down to like 3.5kg. (torque divided by distance) Meanwhile getting 45kg servos results in 4.5kg if fully powered as 45kg servos require more power compared to 35kg ones generally otherwise they can’t move as much weight nor no longer beat the 35kg servos in speed. Seems plenty of weight room but it isn’t quite since you go your receiver taking up some of that weight alongside (if you get it) the twist axis servo and stuff there too. Which by the way…no point in getting an onahole that doesn’t fit into the receiver or adapter you get so might be best to check if they fit prior.

As myhandy said, I hope this also helps you in making your decision but I also suggest checking out a few topics around on this site instead of just taking two individual’s words on it all. (We don’t know everything, only what we’re experienced/found which could be wrong)

I will add you’ve gotten the input of some very knowledgeable people in the community so listen well lol

But other than ratattack15s advice and as someone whos currently working on his own device assembly after having a similar conundrum heres what i failed to consider/underestimated and would have appreciated better context for -

Size and force/noise - theres something almost erotic of the movements in an sr6 (personal opinion i know) but moving away from single axis strokers i was immediatly thrown by the force 6 x 45kg servos can dish out and they are not quiet lol. I mean if you do your research and buy from the right places, id say you could pretty lucky like I did and find some of the quietest servos in the market, like so quiet you cant hear them 8 feet away from each other across a door and another big thing is convienece of use/size; as already mentioned earlier they are bigish and not the easiest to move around, what else im realizing is that once you have the right settings/adjustments to your personal setup, youd be less in inclined to want to move it as well so something to keep in mind.

DiY - the people on this website maybe a bit more DiY/tech savy than your average consumer, so expect there to be a slight learning curve when building out your device. Again, parts/assembly kits from the right supplier can make the process fell like lego, but there maybe some adriuno/code related stuff to do as. Nothing impossible or not undertsandable in a few hours of use/reading. But definitely not as convienence/plug and play-ready as a handy. Also i cannot recommend enough to test out each part during the build rather then finish the build then testing out the entire device.

Ona holes - theres a good chance your sleeve attachement to the device will either accomodate fleshlights or Ona holes, not both. Youll require a differnt kind of attachement for each of the 2 sleeve types, hence the need for high weight limit on the torque. Personally after being introduced to the world of onaholes i feel like theres no going back? A good one is definitely a class above the best fleshlight if you ask me but to each their own! Also the adiditional twist/suction/valve modules do not work on onholes unfortunatly.

Lube costs - if you plan on using your device semi regularly, youre going to be spending a decent bit on commercial lube, skunk around on eros and find the good recipies that cost pennies in the dollar to “mass” produce lol.

Now heres why i bought my SR6

Multiple axis = more realistic movement, well maybe realistic is the wrong word but more movement in general, leaving to more buildup and more immersive sessions.

Natural progression - i could be very wrong here and i have seen the stats on the number of multi axis device owners vs single axis device owners but i truly feel as the costs get cheaper, the sr6 or alike could become the market mainstreat device until we have fully functioning sex robots haha.
Personal opinion and biased so take it with a pinch of salt, but as human beings we get bored of things eventually. Dudes get bored of toys fast and need updgrades. If you see yourself as that kind of person and enjoys cyber sex toys, and with the latest advancements in AI scripting, i think the sr6 could see a shift in popularity as it enters more markets at accessable rates.

Gaming - again, untested unverified opinion here but a single axis device VS multi-axis device to me opens up the possibilities for adding “sequnces” of motion for differnt game play events/situations vs the same movement across a game. This is even before cosdering the twist, valve and lube attachements by default so again, for an rich immersive gaming experince, i think the multi- axis devices should be better.

This topic was automatically closed 3 days after the last reply. New replies are no longer allowed.