@hell1337 Great guide.
but…
Glue the voltage select switch on the power brick!!!
It moves way too easy
I almost killed my Keon because that sliding switch
I modded mine a few months ago too.
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This is a great and comprehensive how to. There is very little information out there on keon modding - as far as I know this is the only guide of its kind on the internet.
I now feel far more confident in buying one. Thank you for putting this together!
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Also, if you want to make it less likely that wrong polarity could kill your device, simply solder on a diode on positive phase internally. If you accidentally should connect the wrong adapter, the current won’t flow, and nothing should break.
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Thanks for all the Feedback and suggestions.
What happens if you cut power to battery together and not separate and you see a spark when cutting it? I was reading how to do this on another site and I think I killed it because it doesn’t power on. Other post I followed wasn’t specific about that and I’m a total noob. I used a High Output Universal AC adapter where you can select from between 3V-24V and I select 15V, but nothing in between like yours. Also I have one of those little voltage detector pens and it’s reading voltage. Please help!
why does the keon dont have a passthrough from factory… an optional “using-while charging” cable should come with it…
all the beta testers are premature i guess…
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Hello, I still have further improvement but they are original mods from the manufacturer
Tried sending you a message, but looks like you turned off your personal messages as it’s not an option. Can you please read my reply to your post and give me some advice, thanks!
So the battery is a 4S Lipo! Where is the BMS? Where is the balance leads.
bms is inside the battery pack, in the end with main power leads.
Cool must be real tiny. That means I could easily find another use for this battery.
I don’t like those flimsy barrel connectors so I used XT60.
One more benefit is I can switch between battery and external power easily if necessary.
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i think we could do a little more, like just double the batters and set a regular battery charger, and a toggle switch that would let you go back to the battery, maybe double it I have 2 keons since the first broke they just sent a new one so I took the first apart, it was weird I guess I will call it a custom bolt or nut. we should be able to shorten the charge time as well I think I could design a better build of keon soo many bad qualities, and kiiro should sell just sleeves and not the whole stroker with the bad cap
you should do a little tutorial on what you did different
There is not much I did different, just a second hole and a different kind of connector:
XT60 is probably overkill, so XT30 should do as well and a lot of external battery chargers support those connectors as well.
faster charge? i think i would have glued it to the keon bodyMicro USB is junk
Yep faster charging (if the battery supports it, haven’t checked, but 5V 2A is really slow)
I would like to add faster charging for Keon’s battery. Any body have done it? !!
lol I’m not sure you can make solder in a barrel connector and use a 15v 1.5 amp dc current power supply could get any simpler lol good job 
If you’re having trouble finding the right powersource, just put a buckconverter like an LM2596 in between the powersource and the pcb.
I used an old laptop pwrsupply that outputs 19.5v and 4.62A
With a multimeter you can set output voltage on the LM2596.
I set mine to 16.5v, there was noticable difference in speed between 15v and 16,5v
And a tip for ppl who arn’t handy with solderingiron, just put a small peace of heatshrink on the 2 + and - wire. Does not matter if its on the power side or the pcb side.
Strip each wire you need to connect, twist the 2 wires together.
Than bend the twisted part of the 2 wires, in de opposite direction of the heatshrink.
Slide heatshrink, over the twisted wires, so that it covers everything.
Heat the heatshrink with lighter of heatgun, and voila you have a good solid connection.