Do you have any estimates for shipping prices to Europe, and is that even an option you’re willing to consider? I’m interested in catching one of the drops, but I know that US → Europe shipping can be horrendously expensive, so having a general idea of the costs would be great.
Yes, I do ship to Europe. Definitely not fast, typically 2-3 weeks. I’ve seen one package take 2 months! Prices range from 35-65 dollars typically for shipping. Some countries seem to have a magical 3lb shipping limit where costs skyrocket after that point. Opting to NOT get the desk mount helps keep the weight under that 3lb limit. Contact me with your address if you want me to run some estimates for shipping. Happy to help.
damn that goldfinger one looking clean as hell, you probably wouldnt even have to hide it when people come over
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Got the January drops, here are some thoughts.
Quality:
I don’t dabble in this stuff so I can only say it works. Super friendly seller btw.
Ease of use:
There’s a concise set-up guide, and it comes with a desk mount. Having 3 height options for the mount is useful for me.
Local stores don’t sell the right power supply, so I ordered one from amazon.
Comparing to the handy:
Noticeably louder, can hold much heavier sleeves. I personally never liked fleshlights and I got a handy sleeve adapter 3D printed, wrapped a strap around and it works for most onaholes. The extra direction is worth it imo.
Shipping:
I live pretty damn far away, international shipping took ~10 days, which is probably as fast as possible without outrageously priced options.
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Awesome! Thanks for sharing your experience with it! Is it compatible with game mods found here? Like how is it used?
Could you share dimension requirements for the desk mount? I use a sit/stand desk with some support bars in odd places that interfere with some clamp mounts, it either needs to be able to clamp securly on the desk top and a 1/2 in metal bar, or be deep enough to be able to reach past the bar.
The “jaws” are quite adjustable - swapping the m6 bolt for a longer one gets even more clamping height. Hypothetically, if you get a long enough m6 bolt, the jaw can adjust for a max height of 85mm or about 3.25".
The bolts I include can accommodate desk heights up to 45mm or about 1.75". The jaw depth is 50mm, but I recommend going for full engagement of the jaw depth.
All this being said, the OSR2 has standard 100x100 VESA mounting holes, so you can mount it to a variety of options out there. You can save $15 in print/parts fees by skipping the desk mount and finding your own solution. International shipping can also be $10-20 cheaper as omitting the desk mount can help keeping the shipping weight under the magical 3 lb limit.
Received my machine from the February drop. Very prompt replies, friendly, and shipping was fast. Item was packed well and had no damage.No idea about print quality since I dont really dabble in 3D printing, but everything is smooth with no jagged/sharp edges. Worked right out of the box after using his set-up guide. Used the power supply linked in the example amazon link, and it works but i feel like it isn’t very stable since its easy to pull out, I would look for something with a little longer plug.
Used the VESA mount on a monitor arm. It kept moving positions and had to constantly adjust it. The toy is very powerful, would recommend using the desk clamp which is much more stable, but also much more limited in adjustablility. But i also upgraded the servos from the orginal 25kg to a 45kg . If anyone can recommend me a more adjustable but stable desk mount that would be appreciated.
Compared to a flashlight launch or a handy, the up and down movement is more arc-y. Adjusting my setup was odd at first but now I enjoy it much more. Much more powerful, don’t have to worry about latency. Easier to clean too since the moving parts that get dirty are further away from the main device and is detachable.
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SURPRISE DROP happening tonight 2/14. 9pm Pacific, Midnight Eastern. SET YOUR TIMERS!
@g90ak
Your designs looks great and the changes you made to the original osr2 seems to be very considered.
In your last drop you mentioned something about adding other servos in the future. Have you experience with brushless servos yourself? Will there be an brushless servo option? Can you tell more here about your plans?
The option to upgrade servos is always open - currently and in the future. Since I don’t “stock” any servos, users are free to pick whatever they’d like. If a customer wants a specific servo, I credit them the cost of the China servos and then calculate the new cost with whatever servos they desire. Upon payment I order the servos, rebuild the OSR2+, test, and ship it out.
I spend a lot of time hand building servo harnesses so swapping servos is quick-ish and painless. Additionally, my servo harnesses require ZERO modification to servo’s wiring, so you can always test and return servos if you don’t like them (assuming you’re upgrading yourself). Lastly, I have produced a video guide for my customers that walks through servo replacement/upgrade. I’ve had a couple customers successfully follow it and upgrade their servos with zero prior knowledge of the ins/outs of the OSR2+.
My mention about price and servo changes in the last drop (#2.5) was more referring to changing the default servos. Walking away from the generic china ones and moving to something more expensive, but quieter, smoother, etc.may be a better experience for my customers in the long run. The generic china servos are really falling behind the performance of some of the newer servos and I’m thinking of no longer using them for the default configuration. I really put a lot of thought and effort into my builds and would hate to have an experience spoiled by a cheap servo.
I’m finding that about 50% of my customers are looking for servo upgrades, which means that I’m currently spending some extra time pulling China servos out of 50% of my completed units and upgrading. It may save me more time if I just change the default servos to upgraded ones.
I do want to continue dropping fully built units, as I know that people like having stuff quick. I don’t have much desire getting into a “build-to-order” model, as I hate disappointing customers with long lead times. Only selling fully built units helps me keep lead times down to 0-2 days if customers don’t have any change requests.
I have experience with a lot of servos 
Some of them brushless, some of them cored, some of them coreless. For me, I find that coreless performs the best. They are observably smoother than brushless, especially on long slow movements. I know that brushless servos are more powerful and potentially more reliable (who knows in OSR-style use cases though), but I find that coreless is my preference.
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Thank you for your reply. I currently use the HiTec D954SW since more than three or four years if i remember correctly (and OSR2 self builds are possible since this timeframe). I have not looked into it in detail for some time and even don’t remember of which kind (bruthless, coreless) the hitecs are 
I think the HiTec servos are more powerfull, quieter or at last have a better noise frequence than cheaper ones. But lower noise would still be better.
Which coreless servos have you made good experiences with yourself?
I use those servos too. At the time they were the most quiet available - there are more quiet ones now though. The D954SW are coreless digital servos - they are not brushless. I feel that they are still one of the most smooth servos, but are very expensive. One of the features of them that I really LOVE is their soft start feature.
The AOZ and Flashhobby coreless servos are newer to market and as good as the Hitechs for a bit cheaper. The Flashhobby coreless are very very quiet as well. I’ve installed them for over a dozen customers at this point and have found better consistency than the D954SWs in terms of sound. D954SWs - about 25% of units I’ve gotten are markedly louder than others (Still much quieter than generic china servos).
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Hi everyone,
Just wanted to drop a note and say that there will not be a drop on the 1st of the month as usual.
I have units here complete and ready to go EXCEPT for a single part that I’m waiting on from China - the rod end bearings. These are the parts that allow the receiver to swivel/articulate. Chinese New Year has slowed down some of my suppliers, but hopefully they’ll be here in the first week of the month and I’ll release the drop then. I’ll give a 24 hour notice in this thread before I drop.
More detail -
I did try this style of bearing that I was able to source domestically.
It was an utter failure - the bearings popped out of the socket during my stress testing for about 30% of those I tested. AND, they have less swivel travel than the other type - exact opposite of what you want. I’m not sure if it was the batch I got, but I would recommend avoiding builds using these type of bearings.
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Got a surprise package in the mail today - got the ball end bearings!!!
Drop WILL occur as previously scheduled on March 1st, at 12:00am Eastern Time.
Got some more “masculine” colorways and a couple improvements to my process/design to share.
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In your drop you mentioned bad first layer adhesion with the carbon design.
Maybe dimafix could help with that?
I expect you will have tried it or similar glues already, but if not it could be interesting to look into.
The Printbed needs to be heated for it to properly stick, so fillaments where the bed is cold, probably wouldn’t work.
But it has helped me with getting PLA/PETG/TPU to stick even with small first layer surfaces.
Also helps with getting PETG off of a glas bed without needing extreme amounts of force.
Been using it on Metal and Glass plates so far.
Never tried to have a Carbon or different pattern on the first layer, so I can’t tell if it would help in that specific case.
Not sponsored or affiliated, just generaly happy with it.
I’d like to buy one please.
I try and avoid using glues since they can leave a residue on the part. Also with these patterned build plates, ANY foreign matter between the plate and the print affects the transfer of the microscopic pattern. So it’s mainly making sure that the bed is COMPLETELY CLEAN - scrubbed with dish soap and hot water, and making sure there is no drafts or anything during the print.
Sure - i think there is 1 still available in the latest drop thread - post in there to reserve your spot. Better hurry!
I read through the post but im sorry if i missed it but what is the default holder it uses? i saw on later posts the prices for the adapters for fleshlights and other popular holders but i thought this was default felshlight holding. Sorry im not familiar with OSR2+ so it might be a dumb question.