For my OSR2, the stamina FL came in a gold case, which took a little electrical tape to help it stay snug, but it was always threatening to fall out, and came sorta loose on a couple of uses.
I resolved it by getting the 3d printed heated case, which is considerably less flexible than the original FL case. That holder locks in place and doesn’t budge.
I know that the SR1 doesn’t have the connection to power the heated case, but that might be a better option. Maybe Renwoxing could add such a FL holder as an accessory?
There is no plan at present, but there may be plans in the future. I’m currently working on customizing Onaholes. If I can succeed, I will introduce the heating function for the Onaholes itself, because the effect of common heating methods is not very good (the heat insulation ability of TPE is too strong).
Somebody here must know the answer to this. How do you tighten the belt on FUNSR1? mine has gone all slack and it now sounds like a car which has a broken cam belt. Mayday! this is a mayday! please help.
Never mind I managed to figure it out. For anybody else who may get this issue in future there’s two small allen key screws on the non motor end of the device, once you take it out of the housing. Tightening them while pushing the cog which holds the tensioner belt made it good as new. It was pretty easy tbh, if I can manage to do it then anybody can. You just need to remove the allen key screws and philips head screws from the rear of the case to open it up, pull it out while leaving all the wires still attached, then operate as I mentioned before, put it back in the housing, being careful not to wedge any wire in the moving parts and screw it back together. Don’t be afraid to do it if your FUNSR1 goes haywire like mine did, it was a piece of cake to do. So if your FUNSR1 starts sounding like a tractor then this is what the problem and solution is. You are welcome.
No the belt isn’t broken, it didn’t need cutting (don’t know how this would help solve it tbh), like I said above I just had to tighten the two Allen key screws holding the one end of the belt taut. Them being ever so slightly loose had made the belt become too slack and was causing it to jump teeth in the belt creating the loud noise I was hearing. That has now stopped the noise and it is back to working as it was before, but thanks for the reply/advice regardless.
Update: I knocked mine from a shelf about 5 feet up onto hardwood flooring the other day. I was sure it was going to be broken, yet it still works totally fine. Well built device. If you can secure it well enough, this is still the best machine out there for the money imo
I just got an Sr1 2.0 from the OSMarket (SR1 2.0). I ordered it with the Twist feature. I’m trying to use it with a Fleshlight, but the receiver for the Fleshlight does not connect to the Twist receiver. The cutouts that are supposed to allow a counterclockwise turn to lock them together are not machined properly and the Fleshlight receiver just falls right out.
Does anyone know if there is a better Twist receiver for the Fleshlight for the SR1 2.0?
Send a photo
Make sure you are not trying to fit a cylinder in a square hole
Make sure your fleshlight is the big 9.5cm (or something) model and not 1cm smaller
The Fleshlight fits into the receiver. The problem is, the whole receiver – with Fleshlight attached – falls out of the Twist module. The receiver has 3 tabs that are supposed to fit into spaces in the Twist module then turned to “lock” them in place. But they cannot lock, and the receiver falls out.
I might be using the wrong terminology (“receiver” etc) as I am new at this.
I’m wondering two things:
Can I buy a new Twist module and Fleshlight receiver alone
Are there other Twist modules and Fleshlight receivers available for my machine?
It took a ton of force to lock mine into place and then I glued it so it wouldn’t pop out again. Maybe it’s slightly more dangerous like this, but I wanted a perma solution.
I also use some hair ties to grip around the flashlight once it’s inserted. You need to push the plastic tab in, on the inside of the twist module, when putting the plastic ring in to lock it.
Baxtyr,
Thanks, yeah – I could see that the grooves where the tabs are supposed to lock with a counterclockwise twist, but they are not machined correctly. No force was going to make this work in my case.
I did try a few drops of glue, but some of it got into the Twist mechanism and now the twist is “frozen.”
I’m in touch with the vendor about getting a replacement for the Twist mechanism and the ring that goes into it. But I also wonder if there’s a better design for holding Fleshlights?
Ooof, I almost mentioned to be careful not to get any glue in the twist mechanism! It honestly works really well to hold the FL when the holder is glued in and you use some rubber bands over the FL.
I think they should sell it with some nice heavy rubber bands that hold it in place once inserted. I also put some electrical tape, winding up my FL case to make it grip better.
It sounds like your holder was machined a little too big on the 3D printer. You probably could have shaved some off the three nubs with a file to get it to fit.
They’ll probably replace it for free, mine was pretty tight too. Took a lot of force to snap it in as I said, and it still popped out.
The twist is definitely still a work in progress but mine is fantastic now that I have it all figured out. The thing puts out an incredible amount of force
I removed all the screws from the Twist module, gently separated the parts, and smoothly sanded off any glue residue. I put it back together, and the Twist now actually runs more smoothly! It looks like the ABS material is a little rough by default. Maybe I stumbled on a good improvement?
My challenge now is adjusting the Twist ring to accommodate a Fleshlight properly.
