No connection is possible.
I have the device sleeping in the shelf.
Are there any reviews of this? I’ve used the handy for a couple of years now and I’m very happy, but I do want to try both the twist feature and faster movement. It’s also not east to quickly release from.
The pros of the handy is that it’s very simple to use, very reliable and it always works.
I don’t want to get a device I have to struggle to get to work, parts stop working etc. And I’m not interested if it’s not noticably faster than the handy. Does anyone know if this can be verified?
The device itself is much better than TheHandy (moves faster, twist is awesome, more customizable) but getting it to work has a steeper learning curve. Also, I’ve personally had to do repairs on it several times. In particular the motor that drives the vertical movement has failed on me a few times and I’ve had to replace it. There is no documentation on doing this replacement, I’ve just had to figure it out.
If you actually use it just like the handy – that is, use a handy sleave and just vertical movement (no twist) the motor probably wont have any issues and it is better at the vertical movement than the handy (faster, more precise, etc.). I load mine down with the twist module and a 1.5lb onahole so I put a lot of load on that motor – which I’m sure is why it gets hot and eventually fails.
But to me these tradeoffs are worth while. I feel like a caveman when the funsr1 is broken and I need to temporarily use the handy again lol.
Just for reference, @gallerybomb and I talked about this on discord if anybody wants a brief on how to connect things up. I didn’t give a ton of detail but enough to get the ball rolling for future reference.
This is the basics of the conversation:
I use MultiFunPlayer (MFP) running on the PC which connects to the funsr1 via usb cable and serial connection. Then you can use a quest 2/3 with “Virtual Desktop” from the quest app store (which is a paid product) to wirelessly stream your desktop system to the headset over wifi. MFP can then connect to your VR video player (DeoVR in my case) and play the middle man in everything. So really they key to understanding is MFP. If you stream VR directly to your vr headset – say SLR’s site via the Quest DeoVR app – then you’ll need the patreon version of the MFP which is able to also connect directly to SLR to get the scripts from their system in realtime with your video stream. I use both options (VR via DeoVR desktop, VR via DeoVR from quest store). The advantage to the option 2 (Quest directly streaming from SLR) is that passthru works pretty well. As far as I know passthru doesn’t work well if you’re streaming it via the desktop link, or at least I couldn’t get it to work. The advantage to option 1 (desktop streaming) is that you can easily stream local media and funscripts instead of relying on the SLR paid services/scripts.
One thing I haven’t does is actually connect the funsr to my pc via something like bluetooth which, if possible, would be one less wire. But I figured since you need to have the funsr plugged in for power anyway I feel sort of tethered so I just use the usb cable connection
hewalf then pointed to GitHub - jcfain/XTPlayer: Cross platform Tcode player to use if your are a Mac user (instead of MultiFunPlayer which is for Windows only)
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What is the model/type of the power connection on the device, I need to find a right angle adapter for it.
Additionally, the ball mount included really likes to twist away on the part that connects it to the top mounting rail. Does anyone have a solution to make it better? Or do i just need to wrench it down?
24V 2.0A with 5.5mm jack
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Question for folks who have purchased this… can I ensure this is shipped via UPS? (Not USPS) located in USA. I ask because I know sometimes with international shipping you dont get the choose the domestic carrier.
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Sure, it can be shipped via UPS.
Well it seems the motor on mine is shot. I feel like I barely used it compared to when I first got my handy and the original model for that is still going strong.
I may try to fix it but I don’t think I’ll be buying another that’s just too quick for the whole thing to go.
Links on the motor you used to replace would be appreciated.
Search for “GM4108H-120T” on AliExpress. There are multiple vendors at multiple price points.
I’ve had to replace the motor several times so I’m sort of sick of doing it lol. I’m waiting for a better solution to this problem than a replacement every 2 months or whatever.
I’ve tried modding the case to add better cooling on the assumption that it is a heat issue, but it is yet to resolve the problem.
I’ve just wrenched mine down really hard. I suggesting finding an angle where all the endpoint rest on the edges of the ball’s socket and then wrench it down hard and never move it. In fact if you can think of a way, just take the ball out entirely and put in something with a fixed angle to hold it solid. This is what I’m going to down in the future.
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My second one also just died with what seems to be the motor again after a month or so. No warranty, and no fixes it seems.
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I ended up buying a 5mm bolt, which i tighten down with a shit ton of torque. And now it doesn’t budge, even on high vibration or movement scripts.
I had the motor die on my 1.0 after about 3 months. Seems like it’s just what happens with this design. The heat kills it.
Hey I’ve got a question. What are the symptoms of a broken motor? Does the device LED still turn on when it’s shot? Just asking because I’m seeing no power going to the device now and wonder if this could be the issue, power LED not turning on for me.
In my experience the motor just gets really weak, but otherwise everything else works fine. It powers on and connects to the computer, etc. It just looses the strength to move “up” with any strength.
I have had issues where the usb cable connecting to the device goes bad and that could cause the symptom you are seeing, though the sr1v2 is designed to run in “power only” mode (i.e., not connected to a computer). have you tried long-pressing the middle button after you turn it on? This is what causes it to start doing the built-in stroking routines, and if that works then you know at least you’re still getting power.
I will say the overall design is pretty simple if you are comfortable taking it apart. There is a little motherboard inside with lots of wires connected to it, and you might just check that all the connections are secure. There really isn’t much to break except the motor getting worn out/burned out.
Thanks, I think it’s my power supply but yeah I took it apart and nothing seems obviously wrong on the board (no signs of heat damage, wires and ribbon cables are all seated comfortably). It’s still recognized by my PC but nothing happens when I turn it on, no calibration stroke or anything like that.
Anyways ordered a new power supply and hoping that does me good
If you have a handy you can use that power supply
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Any idea when the complete bundle is coming back in stock?