We have replaced the WiFi connection method with Bluetooth for the following reasons:
WiFi connections can be affected by network environments during use, leading to potential device lag for some users. However, this issue is difficult to troubleshoot.
Because T-CODE is concise enough, Bluetooth data transmission itself will be more stable (with minimal impact from external environments). Testing has shown that in Polled Update mode, Bluetooth connection is nearly indistinguishable from USB connection.
Bluetooth serial port supports Multifunplayer and VAM.
In the future, we may introduce more gameplay features based on Bluetooth serial port.
Therefore, for users who placed orders until today, we will ship the WiFi + Bluetooth version. Starting from tomorrow, we will remove WiFi support and only support Bluetooth.
This does look interesting. Can it connect directly to Heresphere using the native bluetooth functionality HS provides?
Also, with these kinds of devices I’ve read in the past that owning one means replacing parts often, potential overheating and generally accepting that it’s a “DIY quality” device with a limited lifespan. Is that still true today?
If there’s an easy way to use it hands-free in bed I might buy this.
I expect it to reach THE HANDY’s quality, but to be honest, it’s hard to determine how long a product will last right after it’s released. However, a single-axis structure is simpler than the SR6’s, and I think its lifespan depends on the motor’s lifespan (of course, breaking the casing from a fall is also a likely damage). The convenience of playing in bed doesn’t depend on the device but rather on your VESA mount.
MultiFunPlayer supports Heresphere as a video player, you may wanna have it in between.
Dunno about connecting it straight from Heresphere. This device uses Bluetooth virtual COM port which means it is recognized as a serial device. If Heresphere uses the Buttplug.io library then there could be a way.
I have the feeling that FUNSR1 limits the stroke length even more than the Handy at higher speed. Is this due to a limitation in the firmware? Any chance to get this firmware to set a higher limitation myself, @renwoxing ?
I’m not their staff but I’m interested in the ssr1 as a whole -
Could you please try to select “PolledUpdate” in your MultiFunPlayer’s “Update settings” and see if it makes any difference? My hypothesis is that it handles faster actions better under this mode - haven’t verified this.
There’s no point to using someone else’s server when you can wire everything locally.
If the content is on someone else’s server, there is.
I understand that people aren’t happy about being “trapped” in proprietary ecosystems, but the variation in content and low threshold compared to downloading everything and manually getting different apps to sync is a game changer.
Read the threads here on eroscripts about the procedures for how to get things to run and sync, and compare that to buying a Handy, entering a 8 letter code into a box once, and then you’re off.
I don’t see any difference between this two update methodes.
I tried to load Tempests firmware but without success. Did you know witch board i have to select in the Arduino IDE? Probably I won’t be able to avoid unscrewing the thing to see what’s been installed.
I remember Khrull had a firmware for SSR1 maybe that one will work? About the board I believe it has an ESP32 on it.
Actually I doubt there’s a code written to cap the maximum speed. In the case of OSR2 it goes as fast as the servo allows, and people had to cap it in the player software.
The driver board and ESP32 used are different, so the firmware parameters are different. Additionally, with the addition of the automatic mode, it cannot be compatible with the current firmware.
The driver board and ESP32 used are different, so the firmware parameters are different. Additionally, with the addition of the automatic mode, it cannot be compatible with the current firmware.
Here are the motor-related parameters. If you wish to increase the maximum speed, you have the following options:
Our board supports a maximum of 50V. Previously, we shipped power supplies of 12V and 24V. Using a higher voltage may yield better performance (it will always be converted to 20V, but different power supplies can provide different currents, so strategies differ).
Shorten the maximum stroke.
You can try adjusting the settings in Multfunplayer. I haven’t tried it before.
For safety, the maximum current code setting during smooth operation is 1A. If you want to increase power, modifying the code is also feasible.
For information on how to modify the code, you can add me on DISCORD.
Strongly considering this vs the handy. Main worry I have is the possibility of it breaking down the line and my lack of DIY skills in repairing it. Don’t really fancy the idea of paying return postage to china to get it working again.
