Hey all so I’m new to eroscripts as a whole but I have had a Kiiroo Keon for like 5+ years and I mainly use it with my wife and her Kiiroo Pearl 2. I have also used it with game mods for Koikatsu, VAM, HS2, and Skyrim via intiface desktop (now central). My battery died recently so I modded it to use power via usb c from a 65w charger.
I initially decided to back the Handy 2 Kickstarter and was prepared to pay for the Handy 2 Pro w/ several sleeves and the table mount. After doing about a week of research it appears the SR6 might actually be more my speed. It also looks like the price of the SR6 is basically what I was prepared to spend on the Handy 2 Pro.
I have a background in IT so I don’t mind troubleshooting, scripting, building, hacking, or fiddling with things to fit my needs. I’m also in the process of learning to create my own funscripts and it has been a blast so far! So my question is between the Handy 2 Pro, OSR2+ and the SR6, which should I put my money toward? The Handy 2 Pro wouldnt ship until December and I already have the Keon which is most similar to the Handy 2 and still works with the mod I found here. I do also plan to continue to use it with the Kiiroo app with my wife’s toy.
I will say that I am leaning toward the SR6 because i am interested in multi axis use with VAM and Koikatsu along with scripts found here.
Follow up question: If I did decide on going with the SR6 where should I buy from? It looks like prebuilts are available via: FUNOSR, Yourhobbiescustomized, Caftyhandy, AYVA?
If you want something simple, Handy 2. Its a single axis stroker and it’ll get the job done better than the Keon cause even the Handy 1 is an upgrade in quality compared to the Keon(and this is coming from someone who also daily drives the Keon).
I don’t have an SR6 but I have an OSR2+ with a twist and the extra axises add a LOT to the experience. The OSR2+(gif of the movement in the link) adds pitch and roll which is basically tilt forward/back and tilt left/right. The twist just spins the sleeve which is intense. The extra axises from the OSR2 are usually enough of an evolution from the single-axis strokers, and a lot of people consider the SR6 overkill, but it is basically the peak of the stroker devices we use.
The main thing with the SR6(gif of the movement in the link) is it adds the axises from the OSR2 as well as sway and surge which are forward/back and left/right.
From experience and from what I gathered from various opinions on the website, you could probably just make do with an OSR2 cause 2 tilt directions and twist is enough for most people for the money theyre spending. But if money isn’t a problem them you could probably just go all out. @Vespera and @g90ak are the most reliable/known sellers for the OSR2. They usually make batches to sell and most people get their product quickly. g90 lit just put up a batch yesterday and has a few left, though you’ll need to get a twist module from a third party to install yourself. You do get a whole mega full of exclusive scripts so thats a trade off I suppose.
As for shops, Funosr ships from China, so idk about shipping costs/tariffs or what not. Crafty Handy’s stuff looks good but I’m unsure about how long it takes for them to ship cause I don’t know if they have premades or are making them as orders come in. Yourhobbiescustomized have a lead time or w/e its called so it won’t ship immediately. Would have to ask other people about the print quality cause the stuff I ordered was ehh but it wasn’t a unit, just parts. I think ayva is software from what I could glance on the website?
edit: oh osrmarket by ayva, yeah havent heard much about them I don’t think. I believe theyre working with Funosr. So it might be the same product
Sr6 is amazing especially when you find scripts that take advantage of the extra axis. If your usage is based on using it with game mods and this is coming from personal experience is that you should probably go with osr2. When I used mine with games the frequent short movement tend to put a lot of wear and tear on the bushing/bearings or sometimes would unscrew from the control arms. Of course things play time is a factor which I would range anywhere from 30min to a little over an hr of play time. With that being said I use the funosr2.0 for gameplay and sr6 for multi ax scripts.
As for purchasing I ordered my osr2+ and sr6 from yourhobbies and did not have any issues customer service was good though respond times via email could take a couple days (from my understanding it’s a one man shop)
The funosr2.0 I ordered from temu via a link provided on here. The first one I received was dead upon arrival and the other is holding up well no complaints at the moment. They were pretty quick to respond and at the time I didn’t have to worry about tariffs. I could go into further detail if you want, but I hope this helps.
For your follow up question as it’s easier to answer that first I’d go Yourhobbiescustomized aka M0SAIC’s shop. I got my SR6 from it when I upgraded from an Handy with DIY hands free and they have the longest and best reputation I believe. They will give you support and answer questions as I had an servo break within roughly 3 months and they helped me get an new one sorted out along with sending me replacement parts for those that broke during transport.
They’ll provide you the easiest transition to an SR6 if you want something to build upon later on if you don’t want to start from nothing.
Addressing your actual question/Pros
Now moving on to your main question, I’ve spoken much in the past about my experience with the SR6 coming from an Handy and have attempted to make things clear about what the purpose of each is. Also as I haven’t had an Keon but I believe it’s worst in all aspects compared to the Handy other than it being battery powered I won’t make comparisons to it but rather the Handy.
So with regards to answering if you should get an SR6 or Handy 2 Pro the question is ultimately what are you wanting as if your wanting multi-axis or think that’s what you want (as it’s the main thing of it)…SR6 is the way to go, it far surpasses the Handy and Handy 2 Pro. (I believe since the Handy could do 400 units at a push although it struggled and wasn’t smooth for me I realized after upgrading) Best way to find out if multi-axis is what you want is well ask your Wife to mimic it or do so with your hand by taking your Handy sleeve and try to do various movements with it. Twist for me was the one that sold me that multi-axis was for me so try if you can to also just do one axis added on too as honestly the amount of multi-axis scripts are just becoming an small percentage of the total scripts on here…overall number is increasing just time to make is massive for them especially if all axis’s.
If multi-axis is what you want but you actually really only care about the Twist then I would actually suggest looking at the SSR1 instead since it is an better version of the Handy with the twist added and DIY friendly so you can fix it yourself.
If you don’t want all axis’s then OSR2+ is more what you should go for though honestly I would say it’s more an budget SR6, however you can take all parts from an OSR2+ and use them to build your SR6 and vise versa.
The last benefit of the SR6 is due to it’s DIY friendliness you can go cheap and then upgrade or start off with the best version and upgrade it as better servos come out as servos are what make the SR6 be fast, loud, quiet (though also plastic parts affect that), slow, limited movement, full range movement. So depending on how you build it will change how well it works to a degree and also what onaholes and hips it can take since you can change it’s receiver or make new adapters if your up for making STL’s after viewing some shared about. (Presuming your Servos can handle the weight, there’s an OSR2 PlapBot made for hips and heavy stuff) You can even turn it into an fucking machine if you can sort out an good and sturdy enough mount.
Downsides
Downsides of it though…is it is expensive and as your making out of nothing meant to last for more than an few years (the plastic will break or wear down though how quick depends on print infill and filament) so you will have an massive cost to spend on it not just for initially getting it but for maintenance. (When I got the new servo I also purchased 5 others so I could fully replace them all) For myself I have only needed to replace the Twist Gear Clip Ring as the clip part broke (PETG filament worked great for it as it’s a bit more flexible than PLA) so I consider myself lucky since I had expected another servo break since I got my SR6 back in December 2023. I would also expect that if you haven’t got an good set of screwdrivers you will need to get one and space to place everything so you lose nothing and keep track of it all.
Next is the noise, honestly if too much noise is any problem for your living situation then it could be a major reason to not get the SR6 as many users have been turned away from it due to that as the Handy is extremely quiet in comparison. You can make it quieter via servos as I said before but the plastic parts moving around still cause unavoidable amounts of noise when it’s moving fast.
Now the biggest downside and honestly the biggest up the Handy 2 Pro has on it, it’s BIG bulky and not wireless nor battery powered so you really can’t use the SR6 away from home unless you give it an mini suitcase and pack it well. The places you can use it in home too are limited unless you have an heavy move-able mount that you can fix in place since you can’t fix it to your waist like you can with the Handy via DIY work. So if you want to move around in VR with it going away…just don’t you’ll slip out and most likely get smacked by the SR6 as it won’t slow down when met with resistance like the Handy does.
This downside could be hit or miss as it’s usage outside of scripts so using it in VAM or Game integration. At best you will have it work the same normal or just like the Handy (except for VAM as I don’t believe anyone made the Handy work with it) but in the worst case it will not work/be usable at all as only EDI (Easy Device Integration) has multi-axis functionality while any other methods that work to get the SR6 to connect with the game result in it only affecting the up down axis and unable to adjust the limits of any other axis. As a result if you have the SR6 not in an default home’ed position setup, you will struggle to use it. EDI does let you set the limits though you need to open it’s config file and copy and paste the corrected values from say MFP’s (MultiFunPlayer) config file. Additionally if you need to make any limit changes you may need to restart the game if restarting EDI doesn’t work by itself. (You have to restart EDI) So you can easily end up with finding an game that would be perfect for game integration, wait for it to get it and then find out it couldn’t be done via EDI and so your stuck unless you get it to work yourself.
That brings me though to the next downside which is scripting aka “Fine I’ll do it myself” when you see a video that you know will be great for multi-axis. Doing an multi-axis script vs single axis is an massive difference and as I said already an big time sink resulting in less multi-axis script being made since also it’s very easy to make an multi-axis script and it just doesn’t work. I spend myself several days on making my own multi-axis script for an short 3:27 minute Fap Hero (warning Loli) so I had a beatbar to follow and also the video had clear movements to try and follow/replicate. However despite the time I spent on it and my want for the script I rarely actually boot it up to enjoy it since I know pretty much all aspects of the video more than I would as an normal viewer since I zoomed in and played through the video frame by frame or in very slow motion. I don’t regret making the script as has made me appreciate the work others do and know that if I want to do another one I need a lot of free time and motivation for it, but man it is one aspect where I wish for AI to be able to help out a bit however I know I won’t help out enough unless it thinks like me since I did many tweaks and tests to make sure it went how I wanted it to. (resulting in an safe script and an risky script as I could see the chance of someone getting hurt from over zealous SR6 limits)
Now a minor downside to finish this all off, the SR6’s cables are annoying since they can be in the way of your legs…but also the USB cable does the very classic and annoying thing of not wanting to go in unless your underneath it looking at it as it goes into the connection port. Many times I’ve wished for it to be wireless just so I didn’t need to deal with plugging it in but it’s an very minor thing as it’s only a few seconds of trouble for a lot of enjoyment that comes afterwards.
To end it off
Hope this all helps and made sense (don’t be afraid to ask if something didn’t) … also just incase I missed anything here’s links to my other posts where I’ve said similar, including when I asked questions about the SR6. I need to at some-point make an template with all the information I’ve posted so I don’t leave out too much:
Due to MFP, not having an user made multi-axis isn’t the end of the world as you can still have half the experience at a few risks. As MFP has an very handy function of an motion provider where it can depending on settings make the axis you enable it on move based on any script, randomly, a pattern (very limited choice) and a custom curve where you make an looping mini-script basically. You have extra options in that to further attempt to refine it like speed limit, if it should match another axis’s speed (when they move it moves in it’s way), script fill if you want it to move during an empty spot of a script, along with the range. There is a guide by g90ak on how to make any Single Axis Scripts into Multi-Axis one that you should take a look at. Using MFP like this comes with an big risk as at it is causing movement without it having been reviewed first by a human, resulting in cases where you have it moving your SR6 in such a way your penis is forced to go to an position it really should and hurt you if you don’t slip out. So you must must must set the smart limits and device limits correctly to decrease the chance of it occuring. Smart limits g90ak does mention in their guide but in an attempt to explain it myself it enables you to say to an axis “Hey when this other axis is at this point, you can use this much of your axis from your range limits” making it so although you have the range set to 20-80 normally, when that other axis (with it’s middle range point being 44) gets to 64 the range of this smart limited axis can get slowly or sharply reduced to 40-60 or even 50 resulting in it unable to do anything.
If you do decide to set it up I suggest be cautious with it as you can then reduce it as you test till it gets to how you want it to be rather than attempt to figure it out on the fly by slowly reducing it mid video.
Honestly depending on how much time I’ll have on my hands the next few months I may just get an SR6 and an OSR2+. Is it true the OSR2+ is up/down depth is greater than the SR6? Also do you know if M0SAIC’s build use PETG or PLA? It looks like craftyhandy’s SR6 uses PETG and Funosr’s build looks fairly sturdy as well.
I am now contemplating whether I want to go w/ a custom OSR2+ from Vespera or try to snag one in a g90ak drop or just order an sr6 from your hobbies customized llc. Lead time is not a huge deal to me since I was initially prepared to wait until December for the Handy2 Pro.
M0SAIC’s pre-built SR6 is within my budget and with his summersale promo code it would come out to about $360 w/ a few accessories. A custom OSR2+ from Vespera would run me about $375 shipped to the US. An OSR2+ from g90ak would run me about $288 for the quiet model and access to their exclusive scripts is a definite bonus.
What actually got me looking into these options over the Handy 2 Pro was the fact that there is a plugin for Koikatsu via @qinnyann which was most recently updated last month: For the Koikatu CharaStudio provides link osr2 sr6 plug-ins as well as script playback procedures this would be a definite boon since I make tons of scenes in the Chara Studio and the current implementation via Love Machine has such long delay when changing scenes on top of it only supporting single axis. I am also interested in trying multi axis scripts and would eventually like to make some to my own specifications.
My Virtamate folder is huge and it also looks like I can use VamX, which I am already subbed to, for multi axis use while making scenes in VAM. There is also the yoooi’s ToySerialController which appears to work w/ the SR6 in VAM as well. On top of that one of the scene creators I am subbed to C&G released a bunch of scenes which support multi axis devices.
Ultimately, I am still doing research on what will fit my use case along with my budget and I greatly value the many perspectives this community has to offer. Thank you again for your outstanding input @ratattack15, @cloudviiv, and @lamp!
I honestly dont know what kind of filament is used but I can say it’s well built. I personally haven’t used the koikatsu plug in with my sr6 but I did use it with honey select 2 and it burned out one of my motors so I never attempted to use it again. I’m guessing it was because of the angle.
The thing I will note is that extra receivers for non-fleshlight strokers will be an extra cost.
g90 doesn’t provide the power supply, so you’ll have to get your own. That plus the twist receiver(g90 does not currently sell twist models) you get from a third party will be about the same as other OSR2 sellers, though with the bonus of the scripts. As someone who bought his osr2 and installed the twist module myself, its relatively easy since you just need to swap the receiver and then plug in the wires.
Oh also another possible cost for any osr2(idk about sr6), mounts. Most sellers sell you a desk mount(since none of these are handheld) that will clamp onto a desk in front of you. A lot of people upgrade to mounting the machines to a monitor arm.
I believe the OSR2+ has the ability to go further up and down than the SR6 due to the top arms of the SR6 being in the middle of the device and thus limiting it to a degree. However I honestly haven’t minded it since the stroke height the SR6 does give is enough for me and I believe I’m average and slip out is a chance that can occur for me. Also I can shift myself down or look at getting slightly longer arms for the SR6 since I recall seeing that as a way to get more movement range though it’s then even the smallest movements on the servos can cause massive movements on the receiver end.
Team M0SAIC I am, it seems on reading this back.
M0SAIC’s build is PLA (No idea what Funosr uses but I presume PLA honestly) which suits 95% of what is needed for an SR6 as since I said prior I have had to replace the Twist Gear Clip Ring as the clip itself broke. The PETG replacement I got has been an clear and much better difference.
As a result though I wouldn’t want my entire SR6 to be PETG since yes it is slightly flexible/has give, for a machine that is moving sometimes heavy amount of weight around quickly, that give I feel could cause mini-stress fractures to occur more easily. PLA is much better suited then to the sudden stopping and starting while not so much at risk of starting to warp due to it’s brittleness as then I’ll know right away if it’s time to replace the part rather than when it bends too much and shatters. Plus PLA is cheaper than PETG.
The thing you should also keep in mind that if you get from craftyhandy (South Africe) or Funosr (China) is that they aren’t US based and so you will need to pay heavy import/tariff fees due to the size and weight of the device and parts themselves.
Additionally M0SAIC’s builds pretty much are unbox, plug in and play while as said already by others now you have to do some DIY or self sourcing an power supply that you think may work with the servos. (I realize I forgot to mention I purchased the upgraded servos in my order and M0SAIC provided an power supply that was still suitable for them) But yeah as a result I would go M0SAIC for no nonsense, and g90ak as an backup or OSR2+ as a starting point that you can upgrade to an SR6 from, if again you decide to not build your own.
On a final thing of something else I forgot about, is that on Tempest Max’s Discord server there is an channel called Hardware Exchange. It’s where many people have shown or even provided their modifications to the Tempest Max line of devices which aren’t paywalled. It alone makes it worth joining the server due to that and it’s just on channel on the server. (Not sure if it’s okay to directly link it but you can get to it via Tempest’s Patreon)
