Answering Follow up question
For your follow up question as it’s easier to answer that first I’d go Yourhobbiescustomized aka M0SAIC’s shop. I got my SR6 from it when I upgraded from an Handy with DIY hands free and they have the longest and best reputation I believe. They will give you support and answer questions as I had an servo break within roughly 3 months and they helped me get an new one sorted out along with sending me replacement parts for those that broke during transport.
They’ll provide you the easiest transition to an SR6 if you want something to build upon later on if you don’t want to start from nothing.
Addressing your actual question/Pros
Now moving on to your main question, I’ve spoken much in the past about my experience with the SR6 coming from an Handy and have attempted to make things clear about what the purpose of each is. Also as I haven’t had an Keon but I believe it’s worst in all aspects compared to the Handy other than it being battery powered I won’t make comparisons to it but rather the Handy.
So with regards to answering if you should get an SR6 or Handy 2 Pro the question is ultimately what are you wanting as if your wanting multi-axis or think that’s what you want (as it’s the main thing of it)…SR6 is the way to go, it far surpasses the Handy and Handy 2 Pro. (I believe since the Handy could do 400 units at a push although it struggled and wasn’t smooth for me I realized after upgrading) Best way to find out if multi-axis is what you want is well ask your Wife to mimic it or do so with your hand by taking your Handy sleeve and try to do various movements with it. Twist for me was the one that sold me that multi-axis was for me so try if you can to also just do one axis added on too as honestly the amount of multi-axis scripts are just becoming an small percentage of the total scripts on here…overall number is increasing just time to make is massive for them especially if all axis’s.
If multi-axis is what you want but you actually really only care about the Twist then I would actually suggest looking at the SSR1 instead since it is an better version of the Handy with the twist added and DIY friendly so you can fix it yourself.
If you don’t want all axis’s then OSR2+ is more what you should go for though honestly I would say it’s more an budget SR6, however you can take all parts from an OSR2+ and use them to build your SR6 and vise versa.
The last benefit of the SR6 is due to it’s DIY friendliness you can go cheap and then upgrade or start off with the best version and upgrade it as better servos come out as servos are what make the SR6 be fast, loud, quiet (though also plastic parts affect that), slow, limited movement, full range movement. So depending on how you build it will change how well it works to a degree and also what onaholes and hips it can take since you can change it’s receiver or make new adapters if your up for making STL’s after viewing some shared about. (Presuming your Servos can handle the weight, there’s an OSR2 PlapBot made for hips and heavy stuff) You can even turn it into an fucking machine if you can sort out an good and sturdy enough mount.
Downsides
Downsides of it though…is it is expensive and as your making out of nothing meant to last for more than an few years (the plastic will break or wear down though how quick depends on print infill and filament) so you will have an massive cost to spend on it not just for initially getting it but for maintenance. (When I got the new servo I also purchased 5 others so I could fully replace them all) For myself I have only needed to replace the Twist Gear Clip Ring as the clip part broke (PETG filament worked great for it as it’s a bit more flexible than PLA) so I consider myself lucky since I had expected another servo break since I got my SR6 back in December 2023. I would also expect that if you haven’t got an good set of screwdrivers you will need to get one and space to place everything so you lose nothing and keep track of it all.
Next is the noise, honestly if too much noise is any problem for your living situation then it could be a major reason to not get the SR6 as many users have been turned away from it due to that as the Handy is extremely quiet in comparison. You can make it quieter via servos as I said before but the plastic parts moving around still cause unavoidable amounts of noise when it’s moving fast.
Now the biggest downside and honestly the biggest up the Handy 2 Pro has on it, it’s BIG bulky and not wireless nor battery powered so you really can’t use the SR6 away from home unless you give it an mini suitcase and pack it well. The places you can use it in home too are limited unless you have an heavy move-able mount that you can fix in place since you can’t fix it to your waist like you can with the Handy via DIY work. So if you want to move around in VR with it going away…just don’t you’ll slip out and most likely get smacked by the SR6 as it won’t slow down when met with resistance like the Handy does.
This downside could be hit or miss as it’s usage outside of scripts so using it in VAM or Game integration. At best you will have it work the same normal or just like the Handy (except for VAM as I don’t believe anyone made the Handy work with it) but in the worst case it will not work/be usable at all as only EDI (Easy Device Integration) has multi-axis functionality while any other methods that work to get the SR6 to connect with the game result in it only affecting the up down axis and unable to adjust the limits of any other axis. As a result if you have the SR6 not in an default home’ed position setup, you will struggle to use it. EDI does let you set the limits though you need to open it’s config file and copy and paste the corrected values from say MFP’s (MultiFunPlayer) config file. Additionally if you need to make any limit changes you may need to restart the game if restarting EDI doesn’t work by itself. (You have to restart EDI) So you can easily end up with finding an game that would be perfect for game integration, wait for it to get it and then find out it couldn’t be done via EDI and so your stuck unless you get it to work yourself.
That brings me though to the next downside which is scripting aka “Fine I’ll do it myself” when you see a video that you know will be great for multi-axis. Doing an multi-axis script vs single axis is an massive difference and as I said already an big time sink resulting in less multi-axis script being made since also it’s very easy to make an multi-axis script and it just doesn’t work. I spend myself several days on making my own multi-axis script for an short 3:27 minute Fap Hero (warning Loli) so I had a beatbar to follow and also the video had clear movements to try and follow/replicate. However despite the time I spent on it and my want for the script I rarely actually boot it up to enjoy it since I know pretty much all aspects of the video more than I would as an normal viewer since I zoomed in and played through the video frame by frame or in very slow motion. I don’t regret making the script as has made me appreciate the work others do and know that if I want to do another one I need a lot of free time and motivation for it, but man it is one aspect where I wish for AI to be able to help out a bit however I know I won’t help out enough unless it thinks like me since I did many tweaks and tests to make sure it went how I wanted it to. (resulting in an safe script and an risky script as I could see the chance of someone getting hurt from over zealous SR6 limits)
Now a minor downside to finish this all off, the SR6’s cables are annoying since they can be in the way of your legs…but also the USB cable does the very classic and annoying thing of not wanting to go in unless your underneath it looking at it as it goes into the connection port. Many times I’ve wished for it to be wireless just so I didn’t need to deal with plugging it in but it’s an very minor thing as it’s only a few seconds of trouble for a lot of enjoyment that comes afterwards.
To end it off
Hope this all helps and made sense (don’t be afraid to ask if something didn’t) … also just incase I missed anything here’s links to my other posts where I’ve said similar, including when I asked questions about the SR6. I need to at some-point make an template with all the information I’ve posted so I don’t leave out too much:
Post list Most Recent to Oldest
Looking for optimal stroker - #8 by Ratattack15
Questions for upgrading from my Handy to OSR2+/OSR6 given my circumstances - #5 by Ratattack15
Looking for a solid SR6 Desk Mounting Option - #8 by Ratattack15
Comparing the OSR2 and the Handy - #2 by Ratattack15
Should I get a SR6 or a SR1 from ali express? - #6 by Ratattack15
What's your favourite sex machine? - #3 by Ratattack15
SR6 Questions / Exploring beyond the Handy - #14 by Ratattack15
First time Buyer - #7 by Ratattack15
SR6 Questions / Exploring beyond the Handy - #9 by Ratattack15
PS AUTISM RAMBLE GO!
EDIT: I forgot to mention this about MFP
Due to MFP, not having an user made multi-axis isn’t the end of the world as you can still have half the experience at a few risks. As MFP has an very handy function of an motion provider where it can depending on settings make the axis you enable it on move based on any script, randomly, a pattern (very limited choice) and a custom curve where you make an looping mini-script basically. You have extra options in that to further attempt to refine it like speed limit, if it should match another axis’s speed (when they move it moves in it’s way), script fill if you want it to move during an empty spot of a script, along with the range. There is a guide by g90ak on how to make any Single Axis Scripts into Multi-Axis one that you should take a look at.
Using MFP like this comes with an big risk as at it is causing movement without it having been reviewed first by a human, resulting in cases where you have it moving your SR6 in such a way your penis is forced to go to an position it really should and hurt you if you don’t slip out. So you must must must set the smart limits and device limits correctly to decrease the chance of it occuring. Smart limits g90ak does mention in their guide but in an attempt to explain it myself it enables you to say to an axis “Hey when this other axis is at this point, you can use this much of your axis from your range limits” making it so although you have the range set to 20-80 normally, when that other axis (with it’s middle range point being 44) gets to 64 the range of this smart limited axis can get slowly or sharply reduced to 40-60 or even 50 resulting in it unable to do anything.
If you do decide to set it up I suggest be cautious with it as you can then reduce it as you test till it gets to how you want it to be rather than attempt to figure it out on the fly by slowly reducing it mid video.